Jar
Average user Rating: 91
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A self-described modern chophouse with a vintage supperclub atmosphere, this restaurant prides itself in its signature Pot Roast, Kansas City Steak, award winning French Fries, market-fresh sides and perfect martinis. Despite their emphasis on steakhouse fare, their small dishes cannot be easily dismissed.
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93
5/4/2010
Chef Suzanne Tracht is one of the handful of female chefs who is playing with the "big boys" and her place in culinary world was recognized by appearing on Bravo TV's Top Chef Masters. Being from L.A., I've heard about Chef Tracht's refined homestyle-cooking before her appearance on the show. And having only been here for brunch, I was excited to try Jar out for dinner.
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89
2/11/2010
It actually took me to look at the website to find the words, but upon walking in, I felt as if I was transported to the 1940s. It had that classic kind of feel, from the furniture to the lines to the fixtures, the décor screamed Duke Ellington. The only thing missing was a live jazz band in the corner featuring none other than, Duke Ellington.
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Recommended Dishes
Chocolate Pudding, Banana Cream Pie, Pot Roast
93
Jar (Los Angeles, CA)
1/6/2010
Jar, Suzanne Tracht's vision of the modern American chophouse, had been on my culinary radar screen for years now. I'd always been somewhat intrigued by Jar's cuisine, which presents itself as a sort of contemporary interpretation of familiar "retro" fare, juiced up by a touch of pan-Asian influence. Here's what we had:
Spicy Fried Egg [$9.00] | melted mozzarella, harissa
Upon seeing the words "Spicy Fried Egg" on the menu, I knew that I had to make this our first mozzarella selection. Combined with the heft of the egg, the rich creaminess of the mozzarella was a great counter to the piquancy of the harissa, while the bits of scallion up top contributed a nice vegetal tang.
Burrata [$11.00] | shallot confit, bacon, charred marinated escarole
As good as the above dish was, this was even better. I loved the interaction here between the gooey burrata and the crisp, salty bacon, while the bitterness of the escarole added a further, wondrous accent.
Crab Deviled Eggs [$10.00]
I've never met a deviled egg that I didn't like--I guess you could call me a deviled egg slut. There's something very appealing to me about the weight of the yolk, perked up by various spices, interacting with the cool gentleness of the hard-boiled egg. This was pretty much a textbook preparation of œufs mimosa, just with a touch of sweet brine, courtesy of the crab.
Fried Squash Blossoms [$16.00] | tempura, ponzu
Next we have an off-the-menu special: deep-fried, tempura-battered zucchini flowers. I really appreciated the blossoms' firm, almost "meaty" consistency, as well as their subtle, yet succulent squash sapor. The tangy ponzu dip, meanwhile, effectively offset some of the heaviness of the dish.
Black Mussels [$14.00] | ong choy, lobster béarnaise, fennel salt
Our last appetizer was one of Tracht's best. The mussels were perfectly cooked to a firm, yet yielding body, but the key here was how the briny mollusks played off of the delightful bits of water spinach. The effect was stupendous, rendering the accompanying fennel salt and béarnaise superfluous. And let's not forget the superb chili-tinged broth; once the mussels were gone, we eager soaked up the remaining pool with pieces of our La Brea bread! This may have very well been the strongest presentation of mussels I've ever eaten.
Prime Filet of Beef [$38.00] | (10 ounces)
And with that, we were off to our first main course of the night: a classic beef tenderloin. Some have complained that Jar's steaks tend to be slightly underseasoned, and I can see where they're coming from. The filet here was cooked to a tender consistency, with a proper juiciness and char. However, at the same time, it didn't have that in-your-face, "steak-y" savor that I expected--it was much more understated. Perhaps this intentional, to let the sauces (we had a Lobster Béarnaise) sing?
Chopped Sirloin [$21.00] | fried egg, green peppercorn sauce
On the other hand, there was no paucity of flavor here. The sirloin itself was appropriately succulent, with a lovely herbal component counterbalancing the sheer heft of the meat. The egg, meanwhile, served to add an overarching creaminess to the dish. Think of this as a ridiculously tasty hamburger patty.
Coq au Vin [$21.00] | red wine, applewood smoked bacon, pearl onions, crimini
Here was Tracht's version of the oh-so-classic French dish of braised, falling-off-the-bone tender chicken. This was a heavy, yet heavenly dish, with hearty and heartwarming flavors that were straightforward in appeal, yet suitably complex.
Lamb Shank [$25.00] | star anise, coriander, garlic
Following was another braised dish, this time a leg of lamb. I was a bit concerned that this would be overly tough, but it wasn't. Instead, it was cooked to a pleasing, "toothsome" tenderness. Flavor-wise, it successfully preserved the essence of lamb while presenting lovely notes of anise.
Jar's Signature Pot Roast [$29.00] | carrots, caramelized onions
And here we have our final main, the infamous short rib pot roast, served with a side of Creamy Horseradish. As expected, this was a rustic, homey eating experience of stupendously tender, hearty beef. Simple, yet oh-so-satisfying, I can see why this is the restaurant's signature dish.
Duck Fried Rice [$9.00]
To accompanying our main courses, we chose the Duck Fried Rice. The heft of the duck confit utilized was deftly complemented by the pungency of the mounds of onion sprinkled on top. Very good.
Jar's Signature Chocolate Pudding [$10.00]
Think smooth, luscious, velvety chocolate--rich and sugary, but not overwhelmingly so. This really reminded me of an adult version of the chocolate pudding snacks I used to eat as a child!
Banana Cream Pie [$10.00] | caramel sauce
We closed with a individually-portioned pie, filled with a banana-laced custard, topped with whipped cream, and drizzled with caramel. The small slices of banana were nicely moderated by the cream, but the best part of this was the crisp, buttery, shortbread-esque crust.
If Tracht's goal is to serve "upscale" comfort food with a twist, then Jar is spot on. For the most part, retro classics are presented here with considerable gusto, faithful to the original, but somehow a step above. As you might suspect, Tracht is a big proponent of braising, and her fondness for the technique shows through in the rustic appeal of the food--those braises are definitely the stars of the show here. Pair them up with some of the starters (which can veer more toward the creative side), and you'll do just fine. It's clear to me that Jar is more than "Just Another Restaurant."
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/20 10/01/jar-los-angeles-ca.htm
Recommended Dishes
Crab Deviled Eggs, Black Mussels, Chopped Sirloin, Jar's Signature Pot Roast, Duck Fried Rice
96
7/1/2009
Longtime Fan of Suzanne Tracht Finds Delicious Consistency at The Jar
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Recommended Dishes
char sui pork chop, pea tendrils, pot roast, crab deviled eggs
93
9/18/2008
Crab Deviled eggs - The eggs were good, and the amount of crab was somewhat generous. Not generous enough to warrant any special note though, so overall it was not that special.
Lobster Cocktail - The lobster was fresh and delicious, but a bit on the tough side ...
I think the onions they put overwhelmed the lobster taste and the dish would have been better without it ...
Pan Roasted Wild Alaskan Salmon - The piece of salmon was not evenly cut ... so here's how it was: on the thicker end the salmon was undercooked, in the middle it was just right - perfect and oh so delicious in every way! On the thinner end it was a bit overcooked ...
It is too bad that they didn't keep this in mind while cutting/preparing it ....
Braised Lamb Shank - What can I say? This was the best lamb shank I have ever had! The most tender lamb shank ... *drool* and the coriander+star anise sauce was de-li-cious.
We had baked purple sweet potato for the side ... the sweet potato was sweet and yummy, but I don't get why people would put sour cream on sweet potatoes ... That just takes away from the sweetness :(
Desserts:
Jar's signature chocolate pudding - very good chocolate pudding, but I can't say it was something particularly noteworthy.
So overall ... Most of the dishes had kinks, but I would definitely come back here, especially for that lamb shank ... and next time perhaps will try more of the meat dishes.
http://gourmetpigs .blogspot.com/2008/05/jar-w ord-review.html
Recommended Dishes
Lamb shank
74
7/13/2009
85
7/1/2009
89
2/17/2009
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