Sushi Zo
Average user Rating: 92
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The creations of chef/owner Keizo Seki are featured at this restaurant. A daily omakase is offered to allow tasters to truly experience the chef's culinary creativity.
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93
6/10/2010
Even with these strict rules, Sushi Zo has its share of die hard fans. Many go as far as to claim that Zo lies next in line to Urasawa! And truth be told, it is probably one of the finer, if not the finest sushi joints I've experienced.
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89
Good food, terrible atmosphere
10/8/2009
For me, the whole experience is important for sushi. Most people, if they're experienced sushi enthusiasts, know that just plain fresh fish isn't enough. It must be cut the right way, in the right proportions and with the right shape. The rice must be good. The dish must look appealing. Likewise, the entire restaurant atmosphere should enhance the food.
At Sushi Zo, the fish is definitely good, and there's a lot of variety. But after 20+ dishes, I was left wanting more. Not more food, but I wish the overall experience was just a little better.
First, the good stuff. They have the best sushi rice in the city. Period. Just the right temperature, but absolutely the perfect texture. To me, that means a lot. The squid pasta in uni sauce was fantastic. Lots and lots of good fish. But after a while, all of the fish ends of tasting similar. They all have the same soft texture. Lots use a similar-tasting, somewhat sweet soy sauce.
For the price ($110 per person, fish only before tax and tip), I would expect the progression of fish to be almost perfect. The food should touch all of the senses. But most inexcusably, the atmosphere and vibe was just awful. Drab, white, no art. I'm not talking zen minimalist. Just drab, like an unfurnished office building. Bad lighting. No bantering with the chef, who isn't the friendly type. Big windows that look out to a busy street that's just 10 feet away. My seat faced an old, ugly apartment building.
Once I saw that, I kind of lost my appetite. For me, spending that type of dough, I would much rather go to Mori, Asanebo or Jinpachi.
96
Trust the chef!
4/5/2009
Wow I love the previous recommendations of "Just go omakase with Keizo san! " That is well put!
Pictures are formatted here: http://tinyurl.com/ctf9vh
A little history and some footnotes about Sushi Zo before you decide to come here. On a last minute lunch meeting cancellation, I have decided to come here on a lazy Friday afternoon. Supposedly, if you are rolling in on by yourself and needed to be seated at a counter, you will be obligated to dine at an Omakase pricing set by the chef where dishes are ordered by the chef and you will not be allow to order anything from the a la carte menu.
Here are the run downs of the items I have ordered before quitting the Omakase after #17.
1. Kumamoto Kaki/Oyster (picture not taken) - I have heard it's the standard for him to serve us this fresh oyster first as he wants to test how willing your palate is. It's delicious and I wish took a pic of it. Don't worry, I got braver after this.
2. Baby Squid - I like the chewy little squid as it was beautifully presented in this nice little dish
3. Awabi/Baby Abalone - This one was a danger to me before it ends because the abalone is a tougher chew and was the biggest piece in the whole repartee. If you can finish this big cut of abalone, you are on your way to a fantastic meal rest of the way. I have a good feeling that this will be an appetite killer or speed bump.
4. Ika/Squid Noodle with Uni/Sea Urchin - It was very subtle and an easy dish to eat with a touch of sea urchin with the squid noodle. Try to imagine eating slices of oyster and you get the same feeling of what's it like in eating this dish.
5. Hirame/Halibut - One of my favorite dish of the night. Love the freshness that was served as my blurry pic can attest on how excited I was in wanting to eat the halibut.
6. Tai/Red Snapper - another well cut standard bearer I come to enjoy. The red snapper and yellowtail are favorites in any sushi lineup. The red snappers are very fresh today.
7. Yellowtail - This was a solid standard bearer of all sushi. Never really can disappoint unless it's a bad cut of fish.
8. Hotate/Scallop - I thought I would like the scallop, but it didn't agreed with me as much. Honestly, I think the sake didn't go very well with it. This is one time I wish someone was with me to tell me to slow down with the drinks.
9. Aji/Spanish Mackerel - Luckily the next few dishes are spot on and this Aji melted in my mouth.
10. Toro/Fatty Tuna -Oh wow, the fatty toro explodes in my mouth. I loved the fattiness of the tuna which the toro is now winning me over besides being the part of the most expensive cut of the fish. Now I can see why. Very delicious.
11. Uni/Sea Urchin -Big chunk of uni will always test me out, but I think I'm getting to appreciate this popular item.
12. Madai/Red Snapper -No Soy sauce on this bad boy as it already put some sauce on top. Another standard bearer that passed the test.
13. Aoyagi/Orange Clam - This one will be a tough chew. I think most people would have ended right here because of the toughness of this item. Luckily I found the strength to move forward
14. Ha-Gatsuo/Skipjack Tuna - I attempted to put soy sauce before the Chef quickly told me "no soy sauce" on this one. Frankly I don't think it needed that either, but it was funny watching him in horror when I tried to dipped in the soy sauce.
15. Kanpachi/Amberjack - Just like the yellowtail, it's another standard bearer for sushi. The sauce on the fish was plentiful as chef Keizo sternly asked me not to put soy sauce.
16. Butterfish with Miso - My FAVORITE dish of the day. I think the sauce played beautifully on this tender raw fish. If I can this fish everyday, I would be very happy.
17. Engawa/Halibut Fin - This is the dish where I needed to end the journey. I think Aoyagi was still sitting rough in my belly, but at least I got to taste the butterfish and kanpachi.
For my lunch, it was about $72 for the Omakase and $15 for a hot sake that really put me on tailspin. I'm glad I came here before my big expenditure on Urasawa because I don't know if I really can appreciate this place on its own.
Go here on a lazy after noon at lunch before 1:30pm and you will get an undivided attention like no others. Make sure you sit on the counter in front of chef Keizo as that is the best seat in the house.
Recommended Dishes
Omakase with Chef Keizo
93
Sushi Zo (Los Angeles, CA)
2/3/2009
When asked about the best sushi in Los Angeles, most serious eaters (me included) will respond with Urasawa. In fact, I'm fairly confident that those who don't, simply haven't been. Now, given that Urasawa is at the top of the hierarchy, the question then of who's number two becomes more interesting. A lot of people would say Mori Sushi, some the infamous Sushi Nozawa, or perhaps Sushi Sasabune, maybe even Go's Mart, but the most common answer I hear is the topic of this post: Sushi Zo.
Like many sushi greats, Keizo makes his own special shoyu, or soy sauce, and gets much of his raw ingredients shipped from Japan. He also subscribes to the somewhat controversial "warm rice" school, and indeed, on cursory glance, his style does bear a resemblance to the Nozawa/Sasabune way of doing things. No matter, Keizo must be doing something right, as he has drawn legions of followers from amongst the SoCal foodie crowd. It was time for me to see what all the warm fuss was about.
1: Kumamoto Kaki/Oyster [$2.80]
I've always been fond of Kumamotos, and this dish reaffirmed their status as my oyster of choice. The example here, heightened by the application of ponzu, momiji oroshi and scallion, was clean, light, crisp, and tangy, with a pleasant, lingering brininess on the finish.
2: Maguro/Tuna Sashimi [$12.00]
Next, a simple sashimi course of bluefin tuna. This could've turned out very boring (as tuna tends to), but was actually a pleasant surprise. The maguro had a very pleasing texture to it--tender, yet with a bit of chew to it, and was suitably oily. The light sauce added complexity upon first taste, while the dollops of wasabi gave the sashimi a biting, spicy finish.
3: Ika/Squid Noodle with Uni/Sea Urchin [$6.00]
Now this was an interesting dish. What we have is squid "noodles" smothered in a creamy sea urchin roe "sauce." The uni really came to the fore here, with the squid taking a backseat. In fact, had I not been told of the squid, I could've easily mistaken the "noodles" for actual noodles, as they were very soft and not chewy at all.
4: Awabi/Baby Abalone [$25.00]
The abalone itself was rather mild, with just a hint of brininess, and had a crunchy, slightly rubbery consistency. It wasn't particularly exciting on its own, but really opened up with the use of yuzu kosho ("yuzu and pepper"), a condiment made from yuzu zest, chili peppers, and salt. It added an absolutely fascinating spicy yet salty yet sour kick to the abalone that really took the dish to another level.
5: Hirame/Halibut [$2.60]
No soy. The hirame was a nice way to start off the nigiri portion of the meal. Halibut isn't particularly strong tasting, and initially, all I got was a sort of general fishiness spruced up by a very slight citrus-y twang, followed up by a wasabi kick. Gorgeous texture on this one.
6: Hotate/Scallop [$2.70]
Little soy. A fantastic soft, yet firm texture along with a wonderfully delicate, sweet scallop flavor combined here to form one of the best preparations of scallop sushi I've had.
7: Aji/Spanish Mackerel [$2.70]
No soy. Aji is quickly becoming one of my favorite fishes, and this example shows why. There was just enough of that signature mackerel fishiness to make this interesting, but it didn't overpower like it sometimes does. Instead, the flavor was complemented perfectly by the tart sauce and strong ginger-y finish.
8: Ha-Gatsuo/Skipjack Tuna [$2.80]
No soy. Skipjack is a relatively rare fish to find; I've only had it before at Echigo and Urasawa. I wish it were more common, as it turned out to be one of the highlights of the evening. Much more fascinating than regular tuna, the fish had a somewhat softer, richer texture. The taste initially was dominated by ponzu and ginger, but gradually gave way to reveal the true nature of the fish.
9: Hamachi/Yellowtail [$2.60]
Soy. This was actually a very creamy version of hamachi, but fortunately it wasn't overly unctuous as farmed yellowtail tends to be. Most yellowtail one eats is farm-raised, meaning that the fish don't get as much exercise as their wild counterparts; this results in a fattier, softer, heavier fish. I used to love hamachi when I was a sushi neophyte, but am really beginning to move away from it, especially after experiencing wild yellowtail (i.e. buri).
10: Toro/Fatty Tuna [$10.00]
No soy. Every other course of nigiri was served singly, so I'm not sure why two pieces of toro were provided here. In any case, I appreciated the tuna's soft, yielding, no-gristle texture here, but the lack of marbling and oil left me wanting. The sauce was perhaps used a bit too liberally as well. I know this is solid toro, but I just keep comparing it to the simply transcendent toro I had at Kyubey. That piece of toro has "ruined me" so to speak; only Urasawa's comes close.
11: Shima Aji/Striped Jack [$3.50]
Soy. What really worked well for me here was the fish's slight crunch coupled with a light oiliness and subtle flavor, accented by wasabi. About the name here, we were told by the waitress that this was "yellowtail skipjack," which struck me as quite odd. Upon researching the nomenclature for a bit, I found that the fish is also known as "yellowjack," which explains the confusion.
12: Amaebi/Sweet Shrimp [$3.50]
Soy. Sadly, this was disappointing. The shrimp were super creamy, almost mushy, and lacked the crisp snappiness that I like in my amaebi. The flavor was also muted, not sharp or briny enough. One of my dining companions likened this to "shrimp cocktail." The problem, I think, stems from the use of the smaller hokkoku akaebi (Alaskan Pink Shrimp) instead of my preferred botanebi.
13: Kinmedai/Golden Eye Snapper [$4.50]
No soy. Easily one of the standouts for me. As refreshing as sushi can be, with an ethereal body and silky texture, and very little fat, along with a wasabi finish. I really appreciated the bit of skin left on. Another rarity, I'd had this previously only at Shibucho and Sasabune.
14: Meji Maguro/Baby Tuna [$4.00]
No soy. Now here's something that I don't think I've ever had anywhere else. This was basically young tuna, and was markedly different from its adult brethren. Compared to regular maguro, it was heavier, denser, and chewier (and obviously lighter in color), with a more subtle flavor, highlighted by the soy and citrus. I'd like to see more places offer this.
15: Kanpachi/Amberjack [$2.80]
No soy. Like yellowtail, the fish known as amberjack is one whose name changes with its age, in a process termed shusse uo, which roughly means "fish of advancement." Kanpachi is actually the amberjack's most mature stage. In any case, the spiciness of the yuzu kosho really came to the fore here, adding a bit of heat to an otherwise mild-tasting fish. I could see how some might find it distracting though.
16: Ankimo/Monkfish Liver [$2.50]
This was notable for being the first gunkan-style preparation of ankimo I've seen. The liver was served warm, and topped with momiji oroshi and scallion. These accoutrements served their role deftly, and the whole amalgam was lovely. One of my dining companions, though, felt that the nori was perhaps a bit too dominant in the flavor profile. I, however, quite liked the smokiness of the seaweed.
***Please refer to the review linked below for courses 17 through 33.***
For a party of four, the end result was about $160 per person (or $125 sans booze), quite reasonable I think given the quality (and quantity) of the food. Sushi Zo has garnered its share of praise, and perhaps some would say hype. But after eating here, I do feel that such commendation is, for the most part, deserved. Second best? Yeah, I can believe it.
Full review with photos:
http://www.kevinea ts.com/2009/01/sushi-zo-los -angeles-ca.htm
89
Sushi Zo- Another Perspective
11/19/2008
This little sushi bar has been getting a lot of attention. We have seen numerous references to it being one of the top sushi bars in the area, with the notable exception of Urasawa. However, many fans complain of ill-treatment by Keizo, the Sushi Chef and owner. We decided to investigate and draw our own conclusions.
We made a reservation on a Friday for the same night and had no problems getting two nice seats at the bar in front of Keizo. The Omakase arrangement was explained to us both on the phone as well as when we were seated. We then then proceeded to feast on (I counted) 32 separate varieties of fish - mostly in sushi form. I have listed them below with our brief assessments of each. All in all, I find people's complaints about Keizo to be unfounded. He is obviously a little on the shy side, but more significantly, he is intensely focused on what he is doing. He is not rude, he is efficient.
We go to top sushi bars all over and frequently opt for the Omakase option. What we typically get is far less variety. Often there are two pieces of sushi (and larger pieces at that) per order, and a lot more rolls and filler dishes may be incorporated. I don't even think we had this much fish variety at Urasawa. 32 is A LOT. What others call "rude" I call "efficient." My husband used the term "assembly line." I think this is not wrong. Almost every piece is individually served on a small dish. Keizo does not even save time by putting multiple pieces on the same dish. As soon as you lifted the piece off the plate, a waitress would come by and whisk the plate away. No going after any stray rice kernels here...
I completely understand his need for focus. My husband often teases me as when I make shrimp at home I go into a similar mode - no one is allowed to talk to me as I have to put all my attention into each individual shrimp to make sure they are cooked exactly perfect, not under- nor over-cooked. I watched Keizo put the same passion into slicing and seasoning each of the 32 pieces for a room filled with people all at different stages of the 32 step process.
So the dish comes out, either by Keizo or a waitress, and you are given instruction: "No Soy Sauce" or "Little Soy Sauce." Yes, to me it was obvious without them telling me which was the appropriate option. But I have been eating this stuff for decades. Also, if Keizo would have to stop and think about whether or not the customer in front of him needed instruction, that would certainly make him less efficient and he risks making mistakes. And it would be even harder for him to train the waitresses to sort out the pros from the newbies. I am not offended when the Italian restaurant "demonstrates" the mixing of the olive oil and balsamic for bread dipping. Or when the Korean place tells me to add the red sauce to the Bibim bap. So why is this any different?
In regards to price, it was not cheap. We had ordered about $50 worth of Sake. Inclusive of that, the bill was $300. I am not clear if we could have stopped him sooner than we did; I know by the end I was slipping my husband most of my toro hand roll. At one point, he asked us if we wanted more, and we quickly declined. For the quality and quantity of fish we received, I have no quarrel with the price.
So far, I declare the venue, the chef, the quality of the fish, and even the price all well-above par.
However, I do have a criticism about some of the food itself. And this is where it gets really subjective. I really used to enjoy Sushi Sushi in BH. But then I made the mistake of going there too frequently. I quickly became attuned to the monotony of the same seasoning (kind of a soy/dashi thing) that they put on almost every fish. The original Sasabune and Nozawa clones use(d) a similar sauce. I like this sauce. But not on everything. It just kinda gets boring and actually has a stronger flavor profile than just plain soy sauce. We felt the fish, as good as it was, was losing its subtlety of flavor. So we eventually stopped going to Sushi Sushi.
Keizo does something a bit similar. He favors a sauce that he uses with some frequency that is also a soy/ponzu/dashi kind of flavor profile. But he adds a bit of ginger to it. After having it on a number of pieces, I finally decided I just didn't like it. I have never been one for gari (ginger) so this was just not my thing.
Another problem I had was his soy sauce. Clearly homemade, it possessed a wonderful smokiness and had a high degree of complexity. So high, in fact, that while it was a brilliant pairing with bigger flavored fishes like tuna and yellow tail, it all but overwhelmed the more delicate white fishes.
Finally, my last criticism was of the rice. As any true sushi aficionado knows, the rice is at least as important as the fish, and it requires a significant amount of expertise to prepare correctly. The flavor was spot on. And even the texture of the individual kernels was ideal. But something happened with the assembly of the rice base for the sushi pieces. When eating a piece of sushi meant to be dipped in soy sauce, it is expected that you should be able to invert the piece of sushi so that you are only dipping the fish gently into the soy (you only want a few drops) as to avoid contact with the rice. Well, any attempt at picking up the sushi and inverting it resulted in the rice ball breaking apart. This happened repeatedly. It was messy and awkward, especially considering the waitresses were in a hurry to grab the plates away.
All in all, Sushi Zo was quite good. I prefer it to Mori, Kiriko, Sushi Sushi, Nozawa and others. (I don't do the Nobu places at all.) My criticisms of Zo are subjective and relate to my personal palate. For me, Shibucho on Beverly is far better. The quality is comparable, the adornments used on the fish simpler and subtler. And yes, I do love his wine list of old Bordeaux and Burgundy to pair with the fish. It is still my favorite non-Urawasa option. I have not yet been to the Hump, Hiko, Sushi Gen, or Nishimura, which others have cited as better. I hope to try them soon.
The 32: (Miso to start)
1. Hama Hama oyster sashimi in the shell with ponzu
2. Amberjack sashimi - 2 pieces
3. Maguro Sashimi - 2 pieces
4. Halibut sushi - salt. quite nice
5. Hotate sushi - one of my favorites
6. Albacore sushi - too much ginger
7. Toro - This was weird; unevenly sliced thin pieces.
8. Aji - too much ginger
9. Mara (sp?) miso sauce overpowered
10. Yellow Tail
11. Ama Ebi - Huge Succulent Piece on warm rice. Spectacular. No heads.
12. Ankimo - served as sushi
13. Snapper- unclear on the variety, I think Black
14. Bonito - too much ginger
15. Striped Bass - Smoky soy overpowered
16. Salmon + Marinated kelp
17. red snapper
18. Pampano
19. Sardine
20. Ikura - it was kept marinated in a dashi based-broth that made the eggs quite smoky and very soft.
21. Uni - Spot on.
22. SkipJack - overpowered by garlic topping
23. Marugai (Giant Clam) - Great texture
24. Tako - Yuzu too strong
25. Crab Handroll - I thought it had too much mayo. Husband thought it was perfect
26. Sea Eel
27. Halibut Fin - too much shiso but great texture
28. Mackerel
29. Another variety of snapper
30. Toro Roll - Quality of Toro was not very good on this one. Clearly scraps. Needed scallion or something, it was flat-tasting
31. Tamago
32. Ika
33. Yuzu Cocktail - This was sweetened juice from the bottle. I regularly buy this stuff from the asian markets and was not impressed by it.
Recommended Dishes
Hotate, Uni, Marugai
93
9/3/2008
Recommended Dishes
Just go omakase with Keizo san!
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