Le Bernardin
Average user Rating: 91
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Chef Eric Ripert serves prix-fixe only meals to the jacket required crowd. Michelin gives Le Bernardin the coveted three star rating. Ripert's technique with seafood is legendary.
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77
Stuffy and not that great
4/14/2010
I know this place is supposed to be great, which is why I reserved it and even brought a jacket with me to NY. But I just wasn't too impressed with it. The preparation is classic traditional French, and yes, it was executed correctly. It's just not my style. Soft bland fish drenched in rich beurre blanc does not make a 3-star for me. And I didn't like the fact that they gave us the worst seat in the house, even though the restaurant was only half-full. Good wine service though. Incredibly stuffy atmosphere.
96
2/25/2010
It's times like these that I absolutely hate my inability to write eloquently. How do I describe my 3-star experience at Le Bernardin beyond "Just...WOW."? Where do I begin to describe the dishes we were served, how can I convey to you the thoughts that ran through my head with every bite?
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Recommended Dishes
Poached egg with caviar, Seared langoustine, Chevre (goat cheese spheres)
93
Le Bernardin (New York, NY)
1/2/2009
1a: Salmon-Caviar
Thinly Pounded Smoked Salmon Carpaccio; Toasted Brioche and Caviar. Organic Scottish salmon, crème fraîche, a generous dollop of Osetra from Italy, brioche--all the makings of a classic dish. I enjoyed the salmon by itself, but it was the saltiness of the caviar that really came to my attention here. The toasty brioche, meanwhile, did add a nice textural contrast to the otherwise creamy elements of the dish.
1b: Fluke
White Soy-Yuzu Marinated Fluke; Seaweed and Spice "Rice Crispies." The fluke by itself wasn't particularly exciting, and reminded me a bit of the hamachi at Adour. However, the brininess of the seaweed was successful in drawing out the true nature of the fish, and the rice crisps added a fanciful crunchy textural contrast.
2a: Mackerel
Seared Spanish Mackerel; Parmesan Crisp and Sun-Dried Tomato; Black Olive Oil. This made me think of a crudo; the fish was lightly cooked, and thus still had plenty of that signature mackerel fishiness. This was very apparent, but certainly not overpowering, and was well complemented by the use of olive oil and lemon, two ingredients that stood up admirably to the strength of the mackerel. I actually would've preferred larger pieces of the fish, in order to better experience the consistency and body of the mackerel.
2b: Scallop
Ultra Rare Scallop-Sake Nage; Lily Bulb and Shiso. Barely cooked and ultra tender, the scallop was only one step away from a sashimi preparation. The mollusk itself was rather mild; rather, it was the broth which really formed the main flavor thrust of the dish. Anchored by the use of shiso and sake, the broth had a distinctively sweet-salty Asian twang that was lovely. I really appreciated the lily bulb in the center of the dish, which reminded me of a crisp piece of daikon; it really balanced the softness of the scallop. However, as with the mackerel, I would've liked thicker slices, to better gauge its texture.
3a: Calamari
Sautéed Calamari filled with Sweet Prawns and Shiitake Mushroom; Calamari Consommé. This was perhaps the tenderest calamari I'd ever experienced. The squid by itself was very mild, and thus the stuffing of prawns and shiitake was what really drove this dish, adding much needed weight and depth. The small piece of calamari in the center of the dish was immensely flavorful on the other hand, and was probably the best deep fried squid I've had.
3b: Salmon
Barely Cooked Organic Scottish Salmon; Water Chestnuts and Pea Tendrils; Gingered Baby Bok Choy and Citrus Emulsion. I don't think I've had salmon quite like this before. There was a definite doneness gradient at play here, with the bottom of the fish cooked through, while the top was at a near-sashimi rareness. It was a fascinating way to prepare the salmon, and for me, this progression, the tasting of all different textures and temperatures at once, was key to the dish.
4a: Lobster
Baked Lobster; Salsify; Sauce Gribiche. Gribiche is an egg-based sauce in the same vein as tartare sauce, and can be made with shallots, pickles, parsley, capers, oil, vinegar, chervil, and tarragon. I believe this was only my second time tasting it, the first being at Joe's in Venice. The sauce lent a distinct tartness to the dish, which contrasted the natural sweetness of the lobster. The lobster itself was very well-cooked--soft and tender, yet with a delightful bite. Overall, a delicious dish.
Supplement: Sea Urchin [$24.00]
Sea Urchin Risotto; Toasted Nori; Urchin-Citrus Emulsion. When we saw this dish on the menu, we just knew we had to order it as a supplement. Unfortunately, I didn't feel that the flavor of uni was apparent enough. I only got a hint of that rich, unctuous, sweet, ocean-y flavor that sea urchin roe is known for. Perhaps the citrus was responsible for diminishing the uni's flavor? As for the risotto alone, it was a pleasing al dente preparation--good but not outstanding.
5a: Escolar
White Tuna Poached in Extra Virgin Olive Oil; Sea Beans and Potato Crisps; Light Red Wine Béarnaise. The was one of the oiliest pieces of fish I'd ever eaten, which is to be expected from escolar, also known as "oilfish." As a result, it was extremely tender, rich, and heavy--one of the better preparations of escolar I've had. The weight of the fish necessitated the use of a heavier sauce, and the Béarnaise fit that role well. I understood the attempt at using the potato crisps as a textural contrast, but in this case, the difference was almost too much.
4b: Skate
Skate 'au bambou'; Cellophane Noodle and Wood Ear Mushroom; Spiced Bamboo Broth. I think this was actually my first time having skate. I found the fish enjoyable, soft and mildly flaky, but not particularly distinctive. The bamboo broth was similarly mild in composition, and resulted in a somewhat flat dish. However, the course was saved by the fantastic crunchiness of the wood ear topping.
6a: Black Bass
Crispy Black Bass; Braised Celery and Parsnip Custard; Iberico Ham-Green Peppercorn Sauce. A lovely, flaky texture on the bass here, but for me, the crisp, savory skin was the real standout. The only thing wrong was the large piece of celery on the bottom of the dish, which I didn't care for at all and which seemed out of place. As for the parsnip custard, I found it tasty but a bit sweet, and didn't quite get the pairing with the bass.
5b: Monkfish
Pan Roasted Monkfish; Israeli Couscous Tabbouleh; Black Garlic and Persian Lemon Sauce. The monkfish proved fairly interesting, as the flesh had a unique, spongy texture that was rather uncommon. The flavor, on the other hand, wasn't as endearing, though I did appreciate the fish's peppery exterior. The tabbouleh, meanwhile, formed a light, refreshing counterweight to the heaviness of the fish.
7a: Fig
Roasted Fig, Goat Cheese Parfait, Hazelnut, Red Wine Caramel, Bacon Ice Cream. Though this course was named "Fig," the bacon ice cream really stole the show for me. It tasted better than I thought it would, actually fairly light and reminiscent of Bac-Os. The parfait was also quite tasty, with just a mild tang of goat cheese, and a creamy tart flavor that countered the sweetness of the fig.
6b: Panna Cotta
Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta, Pomegranate Pearls and Sorbet, Lemon Cream, Orange Peel, Mint. The yogurt panna cotta put forth a relatively heavy, yet mild creaminess that stood in stark contrast to the cold tartness of the pomegranate sorbet, a tartness which was further bolstered by the use of lemon and orange.
8a: Chocolate-Olive Oil
Dark Amedei Chocolate Ganache, Toasted Bread, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Maldon Sea Salt. Both chocolate desserts utilized chocolate from Amedei, a high-end manufacturer from Tuscany, Italy. This one had a decidedly fruity flavor initially, which eventually gave way to the more savory components of the dessert--the salt and olive oil. Overall, a masterful interplay of sweet and salty.
7b: Warm Chocolate
Warm Amedei "Chuao" Chocolate, Malted Rum Milk Chocolate Ice Cream. Chuao is a chocolate from cacao grown in Venezuela. Unfortunately, I felt its distinctiveness was largely lost in this soufflé-like presentation. You can't go wrong with soufflé and ice cream, but I would've liked to have seen more creativity.
In the end, I was able to have some of the most creative seafood-based dishes in a while here, and throughout the dozen savory courses, I kept being surprised, and delighted. Now, that's not to say everything went perfectly; rather, there were indeed a few missteps. There were several components in the dishes that didn't work with me, and the desserts in general could've used a bit more inventiveness. These lapses weren't grave enough to jeopardize the meal by any means, but at the 3-star level, they are worth considering.
Full review with photos:
http://www.kevinea ts.com/2008/12/le-bernardin -new-york-ny.htm
93
Spotty memory but it was really good!
11/15/2008
Ate here twice over the last 4 years. Don't remember the details. Had the tasting menu both times. Each time the bill was appx $300-400 pp.
The first time around was a wine pairing for the surf & turf. LOVED the wine pairing. Bellisimo! Does that roughly mean "wonderful!" in Italian? I'm a dork. I've had wine pairings elsewhere which SUCKED BEANS (Jean Georges for example?). Kudos to the Le Bernadin Sommelier! Very well worth the additional price if you can afford it.
Anyway, my fave dish, which will go down in memory lane, was the kobe beef carpaccio slice. SO GOOD but NOT ENOUGH BEEF IN THE BEEF. Too thin of a slice. More, I say. More!
The second time around I went with a huge group of friends and ordered wine for the table. I think we had the surf only menu. It was good, but not amazing. I think the change in quality perception was due to the lack of wine pairing!! The wine clashed... this is when i realized "with the right wine pairing, the experience is soooo different!!" Oh yeah, that night Martha Stewart was a table away. She looked unhappy. Then again, when does she look happy?
But I digress! Back to the review of the food--- Very good food. Better than Oceana NYC (and comparably more expensive) and Aqua in SF. If you like seafood, you will LOVE Le Bernadin.
Recommended Dishes
kobe beef and wine pairing!
96
11/11/2008
All photos: http://gourmettravel.blogsp ot.com/2007/11/grand-first- posting.html
You cannot order a la carte at Le Bernardin: either get one of the tasting menus ($135, or $190), or get the 4-course prix-fixe menu ($107). We opted for the 4-course menu since we have another dinner engagement later that night, and since there were two of us both ordering different things, we can manage to get a tasting of a lot of dishes.
The only way to evaluate a three-star restaurant, really, is to see whether everything about it deserves three-star. The service, I must say, was impeccable. The decor was very nice without any gaudiness, and it has a quiet and calm atmosphere. You can't call it 'cozy,' it has a more professional feel but I like the quietness - such an escape from the bustling city.
The night started with a complimentary octopus salad.
For our first appetizers, we ordered: 1) the calamari
and 2) the tuna sashimi and foie gras on a slice of baguette. This was an amazing dish, the sashimi was delectable, and raw fish+foie gras? What a great idea! :D
Second appetizers: 1) lobster with sweet corn sauce. The sweet corn sauce was a very pleasant surprise. I've never had sweet corn sauce and had no expectation, but it really worked. and 2) Crab cakes with cauliflower and dijon mustard. (It wasn't exactly a crab "cake", more like lumps of crab ... even better :p ). Again, another pleasant surprising combination. The cauliflowers? An awesome touch! The combination was amazing. I never knew I liked cauliflowers ...
For the main dishes we ordered : 1) Lobster with tamarind sauce. I'm undecided about this dish. The lobster was definitely fresh and prepared well. The tamarind sauce, though, kind of worked but not completely? I feel like the lobster would have been better served with something else.
2) Striped Bass with langoustine. I actually really liked this dish. Reading the menu I probably would not order it, but I'm glad my friend did! The broth/sauce was delicious and the fish melts in your mouth and juicy . Dessert: Passionfruit. The sorbet was really good, but I thought the vanilla-yogurt mousse was alright. The other dessert we got (not pictured) was the malted rum milk chocolate ice cream, which was actually very2 good! Definitely the better of the two dessert!
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