Church and State Restaurant
Average user Rating: 93
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85
4/14/2010
89
4/6/2010
Recommended Dishes
bone marrow
93
Church & State (Los Angeles, CA) [2]
3/15/2010
Make no mistake: Walter Manzke made Church & State what it is today. The restaurant only registered a mild blip on the LA dining radar when it opened in September 2008, but when Manzke took over in December, the flood gates opened. Riding off the Chef's fame and acclaim garnered during his tenure at Bastide and elsewhere, as well as his considerable culinary acumen, Church & State quickly became the "it" spot for bistro-inspired food in LA, and helped cement the revitalization of Downtown's dining scene.
But things were doomed from the start. For a chef of Manzke's calibre, a chef who's cooked at Le Louis XV, at El Bulli, at L'Auberge Carmel, and at our very own Patina, mere bistro fare must seem like child's play--how challenging, how stimulating, is making steak frites and escargots de Bourgogne day after day? Indeed, when I chatted with the Chef after dinner service, he remarked that things were "easy" here; the format simply didn't allow him to get creative. That Walter would leave was a foregone conclusion--the only question was: when?
Salade Frisée aux Lardons [$12.00] | Soft poached egg, warm bacon vinaigrette
What we have here is the quintessential bistro salad: the salade Lyonnaise. The core ingredients at play--egg, lardon, frisée, crouton, vinaigrette--are simple alone, yet stupendous together; the salad never disappoints. There's just something magical about the interaction between the salty pork, light frisée, and luscious poached egg, all tied together by that tangy dressing, that gets me every time.
Salade d'Hargens [$11.00] | Smoked herring, fingerling potato salad
As good as the previous salad was, I may have liked this even better. As you'd expect, the herring itself was delightfully fishy and smoky. This would've been completely overwhelming had it not been for the potato salad, which, dressed in a mustard-y sauce, provided a perfect offsetting relish. I also enjoyed the fingerlings' fantastically firm, slightly crunchy consistency.
Escargots de Bourgogne [$14.00] | Snails baked in garlic and parsley butter
Escargots, of course, were a must try. Manzke does them the traditional way, cooked in gobs of butter and garlic. I really like the use of puff pastry, which acted as a temper in the dish, moderating the richness of the snails. I also detected a slight citric tang on the finish, which I quite enjoyed.
Tarte de Saumon Fumé [$14.00] | Smoked salmon, leeks, lemon crème fraîche
Again, very classic flavors at play here: smoky salmon paired with a tartish crème fraîche, and jazzed up by the vegetal zest of leeks. There was a nice, lingering briny aftertaste from the fish, but my favorite part was actually the wonderfully crisp, cracker-like crust.
Boulettes de Brandade de Morue [$10.00] | Fried salt cold, asparagus, saffron aïoli
Without a doubt, this was some of the best salt cod I'd ever had. I loved the boulettes' unabashedly salty, briny sapor, and their soft, fluffy consistency. They were fantastic alone, but also delicious with the paired saffron aioli.
Rillettes de Porc [$9.00] | Berkshire pork, prune confiture
Pork rillettes, a dish in which pork is cooked in its own fat and shredded, came served with cornichons and toasted baguette points. I would've liked a stronger, "porkier" flavor, as the overtly saccharine confiture tended to overwhelm the meat. The tanginess of the gherkins, however, did go very well with the dish.
Terrine de Foie Gras [$20.00] | Port-wine gelée, toasted brioche
As far as the pots de maçon went, this foie gras fared better. It had a smooth, creamy, mousse-like consistency with a strong, focused, strident foie gras flavor, punctuated quite nicely by the port wine gelée. Toasted brioche to accompany, naturally.
Huîtres Glacées (½ dozen) [$19.00] | Iced Kumamoto oysters
Given the frenetic pace of the meal, our oysters got lost in the fray, and were served mid-meal rather that at the beginning. They were worth the wait, however, as the Kumamotos turned out to be some of the best that I'd had in a while. The mollusks were impeccably clean and crisp, with a subtly briny essence and just a hint of sweetness. To top things off, the tart smack of the paired red wine mignonette took the oysters to an even higher level.
Mœlle de Bœuf [$13.00] | Roasted marrow bone
Bone marrow was roasted and seasoned simply with salt and pepper. As you might expect, the marrow was overwhelmingly oleaginous on its own, and one of my dining companions even likened it to eating beef-flavored butter. Thus, the zest of the parsley and radish salad was absolutely crucial in moderating the marrow's unctuousness.
Bouillabaisse (Petite assiette) [$16.00] | Provençale fish soup, prawns, mussels, clams
Our first main was Manzke's version of the classic Provençal fish stew. What struck me the most about this was how well the dish preserved and conveyed the briny essence of the sea. Each item was distinct, delicious, tied together by the overarching tang of the tomato-tinged soup. The potatoes, meanwhile, did a great job in tempering the savor of the seafood.
Sole à la Fôrestiere [$29.00] | Dover sole, morel mushrooms
A lovely filet of sole here, with a delicate, slightly sweet flavor, accented by the earthy tone of the morels, and a firm, somewhat spongy consistency. The fish was good enough on its own, but much better when paired with the perfect astringency of the spinach.
Loup de Mer (Petite assiette) [$17.00] | Sea bass, Big Sur chanterelle mushrooms, English peas, lemon confit
The loup de mer, or seabass, was excellent--we all greatly appreciated its tender, yet flaky texture and finespun, yet profound savor, augmented by the weight of the chanterelles and deftly countered by the vegetal tang of the peas.
Steak au Poivre [$26.00] | Prime beef filet, wild mushrooms, baby spinach
Steak au Poivre is perhaps the most well known preparation of steak out there, and this was a shining example of the style. We're talking about a beautiful texture and a perfect "beefy" sapor, punctuated by the piquant pungency of the pepper. The spinach added a further counterpoint, but I could've done without the mushrooms. Nevertheless, easily some of the best steak I've had in a while.
Cassoulet de Toulouse [$27.00] | Duck confit, pork belly, sausage, white beans
Cassoulet refers to a southern French slow-cooked stew of white beans and various cuts of meat, in this case sausage, pork belly, and confit of duck. I really appreciated this course's hearty, rustic essence. The meats were as they should be, with my favorite being the sausage (a specialty of Toulouse), but I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the beans, as well as the offsetting carrots.
***For desserts, please see the review linked below***
Last time, I wrote that:
"The format of Church & State necessarily limits what Walter is allowed to do ... I still yearn for a stage where he can cook with the inexorable flair, unbridled enthusiasm, and relentless ingenuity that I know he has in him--time will tell whether or not my hunger is satisfied."
In light of recent events, those words may seem strangely prophetic. Walter Manzke has made his indelible mark at Church & State, and the burden of working under his shadow now falls upon new top toque Joshua Smith, former Chef de Cuisine at Anisette. Before the year is through, hopefully we'll all get a chance to experience what Manzke was after all this time--a restaurant to truly call his own. You can bet that I'll be first in line, in true kevinEats fashion.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/20 10/03/church-state-los-ange les-ca-2.htm
Recommended Dishes
Salade Frisée aux Lardons, Salade d'Hargens, Boulettes de Brandade de Morue, Huîtres Glacées, Loup de Mer, Steak au Poivre
96
3/8/2010
Housed in the former loading dock of the 1925 National Biscuit Co. building, Church & State specializes in French bistro fare. Walter Manzke, renowned for his stellar French-California cuisine at Bastide, Patina, and L’Auberge Carmel, heads Church & State’s kitchen with gusto.
Read more from their blog
Recommended Dishes
moelle de boeuf, flammenküche, Escargots de Bourgogne, foie gras, pork rillettes
93
2/17/2010
Still the finest late night grub in downtown Los Angeles. Rillettes at 11:30pm? Check.
Read more from their blog
89
2/8/2010
I’m a firm believer in the separation of church and state.
But sometimes, when your church is arguably LA’s best French bistro, the state intervenes.
Such as today.
Because today, the day I had planned on a long and leisurely lunch at Church & State, was the day the Department of Public Health chose to inspect the restaurant. On top of that, Chef Walter Manzke was not in the kitchen and, from what I gathered from a subsequent tweet, neither was his sous chef. Evidently the kitchen was a little flustered.
To be fair, I’d eaten at Church & State a couple of months earlier on a night that Chef Manzke was again not in the kitchen and the meal was spot on. One of my top 7 or 8 meals of 2009.
But today things were just a bit off. A couple of dishes came out under seasoned. Not a fatal flaw but a lack of quality control in the kitchen. I put it down to a bad day, knowing the high standards this kitchen can deliver.
We started with the steak tartare with mesclun salad and pommes frites...
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Recommended Dishes
Terrine de foie gras, moelle de boeuf (roasted bone marrow) , oreilles de cochon (crispy pig's ears)
93
1/25/2010
The "Le Cachat" was pleasantly surprising. An herb goat cheese with a layer of lavender honey gelee on top. Served in a clamp lid jar, I think we were all expecting actual honey, but were taken aback by the texture of the gelee.
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96
9/9/2009
Dinner at the lively and now delicious Church & State is a must do for all Angelinos, and in-the-know tourists.
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Recommended Dishes
charcuterie, oysters, steak frites, cocktails made by Michel
93
8/27/2009
As we look back, I would like to thank FoodDigger for inviting us and treat us to one of the best feast we ever had. It seemed like everyone enjoyed the food and the company of the evening.
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Recommended Dishes
Baked Escargot, Santa Barbara Prawns, Chartcuteries
96
6/12/2009
We celebrated our five year anniversary Tuesday (!!), and Wesley surprised Evelina by taking her to Church and State, a quaint French bistro located in downtown LA on Industrial Street.
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Recommended Dishes
Assiette de Charchuterie, Confit de Canard, Steak Frites
93
6/4/2009
We were started off with a plate of gougeres, or puffs made of Gruyère cheese. Creamy, and slightly salty, but delicious. Quite a good pairing with the Floc de Gascogne.
Following up the gougeres, we were presented the second wine pairing of the above 2008 Hughes Beaulieu to go along with the Beignets and the Kumamoto Oysters. The Beignets were made of cod, potatoes, and we had a saffron aioli to use for dipping. The beignets were delicious and paired wonderfully with the Hughes Beaulieu.
Read more from their blog
Recommended Dishes
Moelle de Boeuf, Escargot de Bourgogne, Terrien de Foie Gras
96
a francophile heaven
4/26/2009
really hip location (parking is not as challenging as other LA joints), beautiful decor, and clean open kitchen.
impeccable service, friendly staff.
ausome food, although their steak frites were a bit over cooked.
<3
Recommended Dishes
gambas a la nicoise
bitsro sushi
flamanekushe
moelle de boeuf
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96
A great French brasserie in an unlikely location
3/13/2009
The drive through the warehouse district of downtown L.A. would not seem to be a logical path to find a French brasserie but the culmination lands you in a very nice pocket of the 1800 block of Industrial where Church and State is located.
The ambiance here is relaxed, casual, and open accentuated by the high ceilings and open kitchen where superchef Walter Manzke works his magic.
There is a nice balance of food and wine being offered here. I opted to go appetizer-centric and explore the red wine selections by the glass. The wine list is very interesting and priced well. Many nice bottles can be had in the $40-100 price range.
So here's what I sampled:
The oysters were very fresh and served on a raised bed of ice. They had that nice briny ocean nuance that I love.
Moules Mariniere –Mussels with white wine and aioli.
Moelle de Boeuf (roasted bone marrow) was presented with radish bits as a textural condiment.
Hand cut steak tartare was served with a fresh organic mesclun salad.
Salade Frisee aux Lardons came with a soft poached egg, warm bacon and a vinegarette dressing.
Tarte de Saumon Fume-smoked salmon with carmelized onions and crème fraiche served on a thin flatbread.
Charcuterie plate was one of my favorites. It consisted of in-house made pates and sausages.
I’ve read about the food and service being inconsistent here, but the night I went, both were impeccable. I will definitely have to return to sample the other components of the menu.
Recommended Dishes
Charcuter plate, Roasted bone marrow, Oysters on the half shell
93
Manzke's Back: Arroyo's Church and State Brasserie
12/24/2008
In an earlier post, I had once declared Bastide (under Manzke) the best restaurant in LA. I mourned Pytka's insanity at his departure and could only hope he would show up again soon. I was hoping for something a bit more upscale than a downtown brasserie, but good food is good food and I was confident that I would be pleased.
The appetizers were so amazing (and heavy) that we never made it to the entrées. No matter, it was all great. The restaurant is in the middle of the newly gentrifying loft district downtown. Sketchy neighborhood, but that does not keep the crowds away. By the time we left around 10, the crowds were growing, not shrinking. The atmosphere is at once industrial, Parisian, and Burgundian. It feels French in the same way of the top Westside sushi bars feel Japanese. A rather distinctive pro-Obama/anti-bush post-modern Warhol-style portrait has a significant presence on a key wall. Open kitchen, open bar. Very cool and comfortable vibe.
Service was friendly, although sometimes spotty and inconsistent. It's a bit unorganized but you can tell it will get better. At one point, I was trying to decide on one of their higher end burgundies, and since they have no Sommelier the restaurant manager and wine buyer helped me sort through the list. The wine list, by the way, is great. 100% French, just like the food. The entire list is pretty much under $100/bottle, most under $50, with plenty of options from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rhone, Loire, and more. Lots of options by the glass. This kind of menu really encourages you to experiment. We had actually brought a bottle ($15 corkage) and opted not to open it because the list was so interesting.
The menu was small, but perfect Brasserie. This was the restaurant I wish they had when I was in Burgundy. (Burgundy ONLY has upscale dining, unlike Paris.) We just couldn't get past the starters. We shared 5:
Moules Mariniere: Mussels, white wine, pommes frites, aioli. $14
These were some of the best mussels I have had in many years. They had no fishiness at all, and the buttery, flavorful sauce just begged to be sopped by the accompanied crouton. The fries were fried in pork fat (the new duck fat?) and were perfect, even down to the whipped aioli dipping sauce.
Escargot de Bourgogne: Snails baked in garlic and parsley butter. (The menu does not say but each snail was in an individual ramekin and served en croute with puff pastry. $12
Again, extremely fresh and mildly flavored snails in a butter sauce. This dish was so rich we just could not do it justice. It needed to be split over more people.
Steak Tartare: Hand cut fillet, cornichons, mesclun salad $14
When it comes to steak tartare, we hold all of it up to the "Max" standard. Max is our friend from Montreal who used to prepare it in his family's restaurant. He has prepared it for us on a few occasions. I have never had it as good before or since, including a number of Michelin starred restaurants in France. So when I say that this was a reasonably close 2nd, that is actually a very nice compliment. For our palate, it could have been chopped a bit courser as it was a tad mushy in texture, and it had a bit too many capers which hid the meat a bit. A shame, as the quality of the fillet was obviously top-notch. It is also worth mentioning that the vinaigrette on the mesclun salad was beautiful - the perfect ratio of acid and oil, and the olive oil used was spectacularly smooth.
Raviolis des Champignons: Wild Mushrooms, fines herbs $12
This dish was the only one that disappointed me. The mushrooms tasted like they were all white mushrooms. If there were wild mushrooms in it they were lost on me. Also, I think at this point all the buttery sauces may have been causing a bit of palette fatigue.
Bouillabaisse: Provencal fish soup, prawns, mussels, clams. $14
This perhaps was our favorite dish. All I can say is SAFFRON. And this saffron is not your everyday saffron. The smell was so pervasive I felt like I was in a field of crocus. The sensation was both intense and delicate at the same time; quite phenomenal. And of course the fish again was of the highest quality. You can tell each fish was prepared separately before adding to the broth as it was all perfectly cooked. It was not listed on the menu but ours also contained large sea scallops. It is worth noting that there were two of everything making it very easy to split.
It was at this point that we sadly passed on the entrées and went right to dessert, as there was one we really wanted to try:
Chocolate Pot Au Creme: Berries, Chambord: $7
So rich, so mouthwatering. The chocolate has a high % of cacao, and was European in origin, not sure from where. I had one spoonful and that was more than plenty for me. Scot finished every last drop.
All in all, a great casual eatery with the quality of ingredients you would only expect at a very upscale restaurant. The menu also has a great selection of salads and tartes ($10-$15) and entrées ($11-$25) as well as items a la carte, cheeses, more. This is a great place to take a date or a group. Sample some wine, try a variety of authentic French cuisine, and it won't break the bank. This will be a great place for Los Angeles.
Church and State
1850 Industrial Street, Los Angeles
213-405-1434
This review is also on my blog:
http://foodandwineblo g.thefoodietraveler.com/200 8/12/21/manzkes--back-churc h-and-state-brasserie.aspx
Recommended Dishes
Moules, Pot au Creme, Steak Tartare
96
6/17/2009
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