Lazy Ox Canteen
Average user Rating: 91
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93
8/3/2010
Little Tokyo isn't just for ramen, mochi, and shabu-shabu anymore. With neighbors like Wurstküche, Señor Fish and now Lazy Ox Canteen, there's a rather pleasant culinary turf war that has downtown dwellers close-lippedly reaping their patient reward...
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Recommended Dishes
brick roasted mussels, dashi-marinated yellowtail with avocado, hash brown & tonburi, braised veal breast with potato salad, caramelized cauliflower with chile and pine nuts, Bellwether Farms ricotta fritters with saffron honey
93
Lazy Ox - gets me off my culinary arse...
4/8/2010
I have now been to the Lazy Ox 3 times this year. As a Downtown resident, I am very lucky to have Church and State + Lazy Ox within walking distance of my Loft - and also makes for lots of impulsive gourmet dining experiences ;)
Before you order from the standard menu, be sure to look at the specials on the blackboard - some are short term engagements, so if you like it ORDER IT! (You may lose the opportunity in the future!).
Note: The portions are tapas style, and small - but I personally enjoy ordering MORE dishes, and trying more things.
If you haven't tried Lazy Ox...GO!
Recommended Dishes
Seasonal Pickles, Chicken Livers with mustard and pancetta, Roasted cauliflower gratin, Braised beef palerion (the Pot Roast)
93
4/4/2010
I probably don't really need to introduce Lazy Ox Canteen. And if you're wondering right off the bat how I like this place, I'd like to point out that this review is based on 3 visits. Not that the place is perfect, but just how many places do I visit three times in two months? Not many, not many. The fact that they have a routinely rotating menu helps.
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Recommended Dishes
Hand-torn Egg Pasta, Lamb Roast, Biscuit with Bacon Gravy, Chilled Rice Pudding
93
1/20/2010
Though I was dragged here from the recent artwalk, I kinda wanted to check out Lazy Ox, since I had heard about it, just a week or two before. Anytime someone who is bold enough to put a restaurant, fitting not of the same cultural neighborhood, better be good. Lazy Ox is in the Little Tokyo district of Downtown Los Angeles. Its like opening an Italian restaurant in Little Saigon in orange county.
The space the Lazy Ox resides emits a warmth that you feel when you walk into your favorite local local pub. Just past the bar, you see part of their kitchen. The brown hues give you a fuzzy welcoming feel. I usually like outdoor seating at most restaurants, but with the Lazy Ox, I'd rather be inside. The our large group got to sit on the high stools and table by the window.
Since I wasn't that hungry at the time, we really didn't get to try any entrees. Lazy Ox Canteen is mostly a tapas style restaurant. But their menu doesn't feature many selections, but its their blackboard daily specials that excel. Next time I come, I will have to spend more time on the blackboard and pick better items.
The hand-torn egg pasta with sunny-side egg, brown butter & fine herbs stood out. It reminded me of simple meat-less but great tasting pasta dishes like Crustacean's Garlic Noodles, Mi Piace's Linguine alla Carbonara, and my favorite of late Liang's Kitchen's Special Onion Dry Noodle. But I was a bit disappointed. The Hand-torn Egg Pasta lacked a flavor I was craving. Perhaps by design, this might have been a home recipe of their comfort food.
The little drinking sides we different from what I was used to. We had Peruvian style corn niblets. This savory replacement of peanuts was something I couldn't stop eating. We also had pickled cucumbers and carrots in which ordered 3 servings.
Unfortunately, the octopus dish, Charred Octopus with pickled shallots, corona beans, garlic-rapini & calamansi vinaigrette, had lima(or corona) beans. I hate lima beans. I hadn't had one in years, but I tried one and remembered why I didn't like it. Similar to the octopus dish from The Gorbals, this octopus was nuked till it wasn't chewy. Understandably, chewy is not good, but sometimes is. I think westerners need to try to accept this type of texture more.
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89
Great atmosphere, ambitious menu, but doesn't always
1/17/2010
I can't compete with Kevin on comprehensiveness for my review, but a group of 4 went here on a recent Saturday night. Packed. Loved the atmosphere, we basically ordered everything on the special menu of small plates. Loved the idea of the strange and tasty combinations, but the execution just wasn't as good as it could have been. Instead, everything had the same general taste, kinda salty and lemony-acidic, or fried and salty and lemony-acidic, and nothing in particular stood out. I did like the lengua and cod fritters though. Our friend said the hand torn pasta was much better the last time they were there. Off night perhaps? Overall, it reminded me of eating at Cobras & Matadors, but a good version of it with better cooking. If I lived in downtown, I'd be all over this place because the atmosphere is terrific.
93
Lazy Ox Canteen (Los Angeles, CA)
1/15/2010
Situated in Little Tokyo's Sakura Crossing building, Lazy Ox is meant to be a casual, convivial place, featuring seasonal, global fare paired with interesting beers and wines, all with an eye on value. Centeno's small plates-focused menu attempts to fuse his Franco-centric training with the culinary traditions of Japan, Mexico, and Spain. As good as the regular menu looks, it would behoove you to choose mainly from Centeno's chalkboard specials, an ever-changing carte that even features a different family-style meal for each day of the week.
Crispy Pig Ear with Lime & Horseradish Aioli [$5.00]
Upon biting in, the first thought that came to mind was "savory churro," thanks to the crunchy, yet yielding consistency of the ears. They were delightfully salty on their own, but were nicely perked up by a bit of lime juice, as well as the wonderfully tangy horseradish aioli. This was easily some of the best pig ear I've had, and was right up there with Animal's version.
Razor Clams a la Plancha [$10.00]
Another highlight was this dish of razor clams, done a la plancha, or cooked on a flattop grill. The heat from the spices used and the subtly bitter char were fantastic complements to the slight brine of the clams.
Pork Belly-Duck Rillettes [$6.00]
Rillettes, of course, refers to a preparation wherein meat is spiced, slow-cooked with fat, shredded, then mixed with more fat to form a paste-like pâté. Pork is the most popular meat, while duck is also common, but the version here is the first I've had that claims to use both pork and duck. The flavor was definitely more porcine, at least at first, with the duck perhaps adding a bit of color on the finish.
Khlii (Moroccan-Style Beef Jerky) with Fried Egg & Salsa Verde [$6.00]
Next up was Centeno's version of khlii, a Moroccan-inspired preparation of dehydrated beef strips, served here piled high atop a fried egg and toast. It was one of my favorite courses of the meal, with the spicy, savory jerky interacting beautifully with the creaminess of the egg, while the zesty salsa made for a piquant temper.
Escabeche of Branzino with Coriander [$8.00]
Escabeche refers to a preparation of fish that's been treated with an acidic marinade. The version here, utilizing the ever-popular branzino, did a nice job in preserving and accenting the seabass' natural fishiness. Its pungency was definitely present, but was deftly cut by the sweetness of the citrus fruit and bitterness of accompanying arugula.
The Bäco [$9.00]
Ah yes, and here we have the bäco (rhymes with taco), Centeno's signature dish. This taco-flatbread-gyro-pizza hybrid was created by accident while the Chef was working at Meson G: when cooking the staff's family meal, he threw together this amalgam of pork belly, braised beef, sauce, greens, and flatbread. Everyone loved it, and the Bäco was born. I was a bit wary of the dish, but it really works. The belly and the beef bring strong, but distinct flavors to the fore, while the smoky, spicy-sweet aioli gives the dish a bit of a kick. The veggies and fruit lighten things up, and the whole shebang just works. I can certainly see why this international mash-up is Centeno's pride and joy.
Cod Brandade Fritters with Yuzu Aioli [$5.00]
Brandade refers to puréed salt cold, a French specialty. Here, it's done up in fried fritter form, with the fishiness of the cod beautifully accentuated. I rather enjoyed the brandade's strong, yet subtle flavor, countervailed by the acerbic tang of the yuzu. Quite nice.
Fried Chicken with Biscuit & Bacon Gravy [$17.00]
And of course, I had to try the fried chicken. I found the "CFC" very tender, and rather succulent to boot. Delicious on its own, the chicken was further heightened by the gravy, which actually contained chunks of bacon. This made for a rather salty, heavy eating experience, so the use of the bitter (collard?) greens really helped in balancing things out. The only real problem was that some parts of the chicken were overly battered, and thus too tough and dry.
Charred Octopus with Pickled Shallots, Lima Beans & Smoked Paprika [$15.00]
Seeing as how this was "charred octopus," I would've liked to have seen some char. Nevertheless, the octopus was still quite delectable, pleasantly chewy, yet tender, with a subtle sweetness. My favorite part of this dish, though, were the lima beans, which added swaths of earthiness, effectively moderating the interaction between the octopus, spicy paprika, and bitter greens.
Buttermilk Fry Quail with Pomegranate [$14.00]
Given how much I enjoyed the "Quail Fry" at Animal, this was a must order item. The bird, as expected, was bountiful in flavor, with a delightfully crisp consistency. Adding in the sweetness of the accompanying fruit was a bit disconcerting at first, but in the end, everything really did meld together into a sort of unified whole. The problem here, I thought, was that there wasn't enough quail (only one piece) given the amount of accoutrement present.
Hand-Torn Egg Pasta with Sunny-Side Egg, Brown Butter & Fines Herbs [$10.00]
Next we have easily one of the best pasta dishes I've eaten in a while. I quite enjoyed the light, wispy body of the pasta, and how the fines herbes served as an absolutely perfect counter to the noodles. Those herbs, combined with the luscious, creamy egg--simply superb.
White Soy Marinated Yellowtail with Crushed Avocado, Crispy Hash Brown & Creme Fraiche [$11.00]
The yellowtail itself was textbook. What set this dish apart for me, thus, was the hash brown, which served as a great temperature contrast and acted as a base on top of which the other ingredients could really sing. The crème fraiche and "guacamole" contributed loads of silkiness to the fish, while the pomegranate seeds pushed back with a tart sweetness. I loved the bits of puffed rice sprinkled on top as well.
Lengua with Pickled Green Tomato [$9.00]
And now, for our final savory course of the night, we had lengua, or beef tongue. I usually have my lengua in taco form, so this was a bit of a change for me. Think braised beef, with loads of dark flavor and a firm, yet "flaky" texture. The pickled tomato did do wonders in cutting the weight of the tongue, and the bitter vegetables provided a very fitting counterbalance as well.
Orange Flan with Brandy Cream & Hazelnut Cookie [$7.00]
Wanting to go with something lighter for dessert, we started with flan--always a safe bet. What set this one apart was the interaction between the brandy and orange, resulting in a lovely sweet, creamy, spicy interplay, with a bit of heat from the booze.
Yogurt Cake with Buttermilk Ice Cream [$7.00]
And last but not least, a soft, creamy, tangy yogurt cake. The weight of the ice cream made things interesting enough, while the bits of nut sprinkled about mixed things up texturally.
I walked out of Lazy Ox, button-burstingly full, first of all, but also quite impressed. I think Centeno's found a nice niche here, where he can blend the rigors of his formal training with his trademark inventiveness and flair, bringing together seemingly disparate styles into one cohesive concept--we even drew comparisons to Animal. Lazy Ox is a welcomed addition to Downtown, and I think that Centeno's got a winner on his hands. Let's just hope that he manages to stick around a bit longer this time.
Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/20 10/01/lazy-ox-canteen-los-a ngeles-ca.htm
Recommended Dishes
Crispy Pig Ear, Razor Clams, Khlii, Bäco, Fried Chicken, Hand-Torn Egg Pasta
89
Lazy Ox Canteen, Return of Joseph Centeno
12/24/2009
2009 is the year of the Ox, which in Asian cultures, is a symbol of prosperity through fortitude and hard work. If all goes well, the oxymoronic but catchy Lazy Ox Canteen which just open in Little Tokyo will be prosperous through the hard work and fortitude of Chef Josef Centeno (above, center) and partner Michael Cardenas. We moved to LA just as Lot 1 was getting good press but before we could even try a baco (taco-pizza-gyro hybrid), he left as a consultant to several restaurants, leavng Lot 1 in his wake. Known for his diverse tastes and cooking style, a coworker and I stopped by to try Chef Centeno's lastest venture.
Within walking distance from the Japanese Town metro stop, we took the subway downtown and easily found the restaurant. There's a nice patio seating about 20 and inside was an open space filled with warm wood tones, cement floors, and metal duct work which rounded out the industrial chic look. A small bar is to your left as well as an open kitchen with stone oven in full view.
The menu is quite eclectic and diverse. No baco or suckling pig that we had hoped, but plenty of items that piqued our interests. Immediately after our orders, we were served some Peruvian cancha--roasted corn which was nicely accented with lime salt. We were able to taste a few different beers before choosing one of the 12 draft beers on tap. There's also a selection of esoteric wines, bottled beer, sake, and shochu as well.
Despite being opening night, the service was spot on. Our dishes arrived hot and timely. We started out with the cod brandade fritters with yuzu aioli. This was non greasy and crispy on the outside and the salted cod was tasty and flavorful. Warm and comforting. Could have eaten 5 more of these.
Our second starter, which ranged from $5-10 or so was the Khlii (Morrocon styled beef jerky) served on a brioche with fried egg and salsa verde. Very interesting flavors. The khlii had a nice cumin flavor.
We decide to go family style and had more small plates, which ranged from $8-18 or so. The charred octopus with pickled shallots, corona beans, garlic rapansi, and calamansi vinaigrette was our next dish. The octopus was tender and flavorful--but we just wished we had more of the grilled/charred flavor which would have made it even more spectacular.
ext came the merguez with licorice pear, black garlic and tomatillo. Slightly spicy and packed with flavor, the merguez paired really well with the flavorful black garlic and acid of the tomatillo. We've never had black garlic before, but it was tasty and not overly pungent. Our favorite of the night--even though the size of the merguez can be easily finished with a bite if shared--or two if you keep it to yourself. Size does matter in this case.
Many of their organic produce is grown specifically for the Lazy Ox Canteen by Mountain Sage Farms in Temecula. We tried the butter nut squash with Okinawan brown sugar as a side for our entree. It was a nice complement to the richness of our entree.
inally, we shared an entree (all are mid to low $20's) the braised beef peleron (pot roast) with cream of wheat, kumquats and red wine. Delectable and fork tender. The sweet and sour kumquats worked perfectly with the richness of the beef.
Considering this was opening night, we left very impressed with the solid quality of the food, service, and atmosphere. Chef Centeno plans to change the menu frequently with daily blackboard specials and even weekly family style meals. With his strong history in LA and possible reintroduction of his baco as well as visions of possible of suckling pig in the stone oven, we're sure to visit again.
Recommended Dishes
Peleron, Cod Fritters, Merguez
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