
“Do you want to do another preview dinner?”
“Really Ludo? You’d do another one!?!?”
“For you, Will, of course”.
And so, our next FoodDigger TastEvent was born. Do you know how hard it is to come up with these ideas? Each new event seemingly bests the last, making me feel like I have to continue to one up myself. But how could we do better than the last one, or the one before that? Ludo Bites at Gram and Papa’s, Ludo’s latest stop, was the idea I wanted. But how often can you go to the same well so often? How long before I wear out my welcome? The last preview dinner we had with Ludo was a huge success, but another one was seemingly out of the question. Ludo and his wife Krissy are the nicest people, so I wasn’t about to burden him with another event. Until he asked…
As many of you know, Ludo is an artist. On canvas and especially on plate, he continues to push the boundaries of what we know. At his last stop at Royal/T, he was a bit restrained in his creativity due to the lack of space in the kitchen and limited engagement(13 days!). He did manage to wow us with his version of a foie gras beignet and his squid with chorizo oil. That menu concept reflected the space. For this rendition, Ludo decided to go old school, a classic French menu with a twist only he can provide.
The evening was scheduled for 7:00 pm arrivals. We decided to invite a group of mainly new bloggers to our site. As each blogger arrived, Jill from Domaine LA greeted them each with a flute of bubbles. She would stay the rest of the evening to provide expert pairings for the scheduled 9 course meal. If you haven’t been to her shop, you should do yourself a favor and stop by.
We started with a Tartine Plate “Three Fat Textures”. Each of us was given a baguette, which was accompanied by whipped lard flavored with lavender, clarified butter with Chablis, and a brown butter. The three distinct flavors of the different fats really set the tone for the meal. The lavender lard was a play off of Ludo’s famous lavender butter, while the two butters were sopped up greedily.

Second course was a Carrot Salad with Saffron Crème Anglaise, Pearl Onions, Citris and Mustard Powder. This dish featured carrots prepared two ways, thicker slices gastrovac’d and thin slices marinated in orange blossom water. The thin slices were caramelized with a torch, adding a depth that only charring can bring. The accompanying pieces of citrus and the crème anglaise pulled everything together for me.

Third course was Egg, Potato Mousseline, Lobster, Borage Flower. In the past, one of my favorite components to Ludo’s dishes was the 65 degree egg. Cooked for two hours until the exact temperature is reached, the egg just coagulates, providing the perfect symphony of texture and flavor. Put that on the plate by itself and I can call it a day. But no, this egg was presented with a potato mousseline, which was creamy, rich and delicious. This all topped tender and perfectly cooked and buttery Maine lobster tail meat, creating a silence at the table that was only broken by the sound of spoon scraping bowl.

Fourth course was Foie Gras Croque Monsieur, Lemon Turnip Chutney. Do I really have to describe this one? Just be happy he brought it back. Ludo has this awful/wonderful tendency to tweak a dish, continuing to better it. Once perfection is achieved…poof, it’s gone. Wonderful in that you see the progression of dishes if you go multiple times; awful that it goes away once greatness is achieved. But being so customer oriented, he brought this definition of a sandwich back to appease the many requests he received.
The fifth course presented us with Burgundy Escargots, Garlic Flan, Green Jus, Yellow Flowers. At this point, I was beginning to feel quite full. So much so that the rich flan and buttery escargots were a bit much for me. I really enjoyed the play on the classic escargot, with the added earthiness from the green jus, but I couldn’t get over the richness at this point in the meal. The escargot, however, were beautifully prepared.
The sixth course was Columbian River King Salmon Confit, Spring Cabbage, Orange Skin and Juniper Berries. The fish was cooked absolutely perfectly to 85 degrees, with the skin seared to a crisp. On the plate was the juniper berry sauce, cabbage and agar, a type of seaweed. The combination of flavors were a bit difficult for me to comprehend, with my favorite part of the course being the crispy skin.

Course seven brought our last protein, Poached Jidori Chicken, Crispy Skin, German Butter Ball Potatoes, Bacon Royale. Organic Jidori chicken, more used to being prepared as LFC, was rolled in plastic wrap and slowly poached. Topped with crispy skin and hazelnuts, the best of both worlds was provided. The meat was moist and soft…almost pillowy. The skin was a tremendous contrast in texture. Incredible!

For course eight, we were delighted with the Brie Chantilly Napoleon, Honey Comb, Balsamic. Krissy intimated that she begged Ludo to bring this dish back from his Bastide days. It was her favorite, so he acquiesced. The brie was whipped for two hours, incorporating air into the cheese and a sore arm on Holly of The Michelin Project(more on this later). I put the cheese, some greens and some balsamic in my mouth and wasn’t sure what to make of it. I started to wonder if this dish was really as good as it looked. Then, I remembered the honey comb. I shoved it into the mix and all in the world became right for just a few moments. The sweetness from the honey comb brought everything together like… actually, there is no comparison here. It was that good.
Our final course was a Dark chocolate Souffle, Black Pepper Milk Chocolate Ice Cream, Chocolate Cream. This little study of chocolate textures gave us the soufflé with chocolate ice cream and a chocolate sauce. Somehow, the black pepper fought through all of that goodness and gave a contrasting sharpness that really brought out chocolate. I finished my dish before Elliott of http://fforfood.blogspot.com had her third bite. But then again, she was busy staring at me in disbelief as I shoveled the soufflé into my mouth.
As the meal ended, we sat there digesting the food and wine. Ludo came out and shared some words with us. He spoke of his love of bloggers, his desire to bring great food to people, and his desire to push the envelope. He wants to challenge himself and his diners. He doesn’t do “boring food” and wishes to make his current menu more provocative as his comfort level with his kitchen and staff increases.
“Like Will, he went to Pierre Gagnaire and he don’t know what the f*ck he ate”. Thanks Ludo. But he was right. I did go to Twist, and some of the dishes left me scratching my head. The dishes at Twist made me really think. Just like the dishes at Ludo Bites always make me think. You may love it, hate it, or like me at Twist, not know what the f*ck you ate, but it’s always an adventure. You always know Ludo’s passion is entwined in every little aspect and ingredient of his dishes.
Opening night for any restaurant can be arguably the most difficult night. There are so many things that can go wrong. All the vision and planning put into building a space for a restaurant get tested. I would imagine moving into a space that is currently in business for breakfast and lunch, and making that space work for your pop up concept, is even more stressful. Ludo eased the stress for this pre-opening night event by…training four interns. The four students, including the aforementioned Holly, applied for and were granted internships in Ludo’s kitchen. Speaking to Holly, she stated that night she had only been training for two days. She gushed about working with foie gras and hand whipping the brie. I’d never seen anyone so tired looking, yet so happy. This speaks volumes to me, that this chef could take on this challenge of getting his new restaurant open, and still have time to train four interns to properly execute his dishes.
As always, a big thanks to Krissy for being so accommodating and gracious. The possibility of her going back to being a corporate attorney is always there, so I make sure to appreciate her every time I go back. She is such a part of the whole Ludo Bites experience, I hope she never goes back to her day job. Also, a big thanks to the attending bloggers:
Misty- http://www.nomsnotbombs.com
Linden- http://gastronomnom.com
Christina- http://foodjetaime.blogspot.com
Elliott- http://fforfood.blogspot.com
Helen- http://nelehlovesfood.blogspot.com
Christine- http://choisauce.wordpress.com
Julian- www.djjewelz.com (photos courtesy of Julian)
Tsz- http://gastrophoria.blogspot.com
Bianca- http://www.southbayrantsnraves.com
Amy- http://theroamingbelly.blogspot.com
Hong- http://ravenouscouple.blogspot.com
Cathy- http://gastronomyblog.com
You all came in with an open mind and empty stomach. I appreciate you all for spending your time with us and for participating on our site. Last and biggest thanks, as always, goes to the man, the myth. The French Bruce Lee. The man who, when asked by Gael Greene “why lemongrass?”, answers, “why not?”. Thank you for preparing this amazing meal for us and for being such a dear friend. You’ve amazed us since 2007, and the only thing more amazing than your food has been your friendship. My only regret is that I didn’t try your food sooner, but perhaps I wasn’t ready. Sometimes, I’m still not ready, but I’ve enjoyed every minute of this ride you’ve put us on. Oh, I do have one more regret…I don’t have any more reservations to Ludo Bites…merde!