Matsuhisa (Beverly Hills, CA)
08/10/2010
My last meal here was sometime in 2004, so I was long overdue for another visit. We wanted a more intimate experience, and thus opted for the "hidden" omakase room, accessed by a discreet sliding door near the entrance. The room features an eight-seater bar, helmed by two or three chefs. Ours was Kuri-san, a 14-year veteran of Matsuhisa. We opted for the top-of-the-line $155 omakase:

1: Santa Barbara Sweet Shrimp and Sea Urchin
Our degustation began with a duo of amaebi and uni--both harvested from the prime waters off the Santa Barbara coast--topped with osetra caviar and a Japanese yuzu dressing. The overarching tang of the citrus led to the subtle sweetness of the crisp, snappy shrimp, which was then augmented by the lusciousness of the urchin. The dish then closed with the briny, lingering relish of caviar. A wonderful beginning to the meal.

2a: Japanese Baby Conch
I started with what was described as "baby conch," or sazae, prepared escargot style, meaning with plenty of butter and parsley. At first, it did taste quite like escargot, showing off a rich, luxurious, garlicky goodness. However, this transitioned to a marked bitterness towards the end, which wasn't all that unpleasant.

2b: Japanese Ocean Trout Roe
Next up was the roe of Japanese ocean trout, paired with soy sauce and grated daikon. The flavor alternated between sweet and briny, and was nicely moderated by the cool daikon oroshi.

2c: Golden Eye Snapper Sashimi
My favorite of the bunch was this sashimi of kinmedai snapper, with cucumber and dry miso powder. The fish itself was delicate in flavor, so I loved the intense savory finish imparted by the fermented soybean, as well as the powder's subtle crunch. The cucumber, meanwhile, provided a suitable counter to the miso.

2d: Yellowtail Sashimi
Hamachi, too, was also quite delicious. Here, it came paired with soy, yuzu, and an "agua de chile" (pepper) gelée, a obvious nod to Nobu's South American propensities. The use of chili pepper provided a wonderful temper to the soft, fatty yellowtail, giving the sashimi a great spice on the midpalate, which led to a fitting, umami-tinged finish.

3: King Eel
Here was hamo, or king eel, a delicacy that I'd only had previously at Urasawa. The eel has bones embedded into its flesh in such a way that removal is not viable. Instead, one uses a hamo honegiri knife to slice the bones into ultrafine pieces so that the eel is edible. Unfortunately, the bones weren't cut as fine as I'd hoped for, and thus they were still apparent when chewing, an annoyance, to be sure. Moving beyond the bones, the flesh itself was prototypically spongy, without much flavor on its own. Thus, its accoutrements were absolutely key. The paired yuzu-miso dressing and plum sauce gave the dish a sugary-salty tinge, while the wasabi mixed in with the roe added a palpable heat to things. I appreciated the moderating effect of the heart of palm slices, as well as the slight zing of the greens.

4: Somen Noodle with Bottarga
This was one of the simplest dishes that we had, but also one of my favorites. What we had was somen noodle, topped with bottarga, a type of salt-cured fish roe (a.k.a. karasumi). The roe lent a positively profound fishy aroma to the otherwise mild wheat noodles, while the lingering finish of the dish was awash in loads of briny goodness. The application of garlic made things even better.

5: Rock Cod with Foie Gras
Rock cod came next, topped with generous slices of foie gras and shiitake mushroom. The firm-fleshed fish was imbued with the heady pith of the liver, which, by itself, was characteristically intense, but not overwhelming. The mushrooms, meanwhile, provided strong hints of umami flavor, while the mountain peach added touches of integrating sweetness.

6: Grilled Japanese Wagyu Ribeye and Eringi Mushroom
A charcoal grill was soon placed before us. On top, insulated by a large leaf, were bits of wagyu ribeye and eringi mushroom, dressed in a miso-anticucho sauce. The mushrooms had a delightfully spongy-crisp texture and great, subtly earthy flavor, backed by a trace of yuzu tang. What was even better, though, was the meat. Stupendously tender, the beef barely required mastication, and showed off a heady, highly-aromatic, smoky-sweet relish that I quite enjoyed. Think of it as the best BBQ ribs that you've ever had!

7a: Toro
Eating from left to right, I started with tuna belly. The toro was textbook: tender, melt-in-your-mouth, oily, fatty, delicious.

7b: Kanpachi
Kanpachi, or greater amberjack now. Mild in flavor, with a snappy, supple texture and a pleasant bit of wasabi burn on the finish.

7c: Mirugai
A very nice showing for giant clam, or geoduck: crisp but still tender, with a lovely sweetness to complement its brine. Great application of wasabi.

7d: Seki Aji
Seki Aji is a special type of aji (mackerel) caught near Kyushu, known for its delicate, elegant flavor. Indeed, the aji lacked the fishiness typically found in mackerel, and went superbly with its zesty scallion and ginger accompaniments. My favorite.

7e: Anago
We ended the sushi fivesome with anago, or sea eel. This was a cooked preparation, lean in body, showing off soft, sweet flavors.

8: Clear Broth with Snapper Collar
The last savory course on the standard omakase was this soup, perfumed with the heady, fishy essence of snapper. Hearty and wholesome, it was an immensely satisfying concoction.

Supplement: Tai [$9.00]
We still weren't quite full by this point, so we requested some à la carte selections from the menu. First up was this tai, or Japanese red snapper, beautifully done up with sea salt, lemon, and shiso.

Supplement: King Crab Tempura with Amazu Jalapeno [$23.00]
We also ordered up a batch of king crab tempura, served with an amazu sauce, which is a sort of sweet & sour dressing made with vinegar, water, salt, and sugar. Not particularly complex, but still rather tasty, the nuggets of fried crab were deftly augmented by the sweetness in the amazu, while the onions adding a lovely, bracing tang. Very nice lingering heat from the jalapenos, as well.

Supplement: Tiradito [$23.00]
Here, we see another unabashed tribute to South American culinary tradition. A tiradito is a Peruvian dish of raw fish--akin to a ceviche, crudo, or carpaccio--influenced by the Japanese presence in that country. Marinated in lime juice, the whitefish showed off a light, bright, refreshing citric tang, perked up even more by the application of cilantro. Nice!

Supplement: Tairagai [$11.00]
This may look like scallop, but it was actually tairagai, or pen-shell clam. It had a clean flavor--a bit more austere and perhaps a touch saltier than your typical scallop--that went well with the briny flavor of its seaweed wrapper.

Supplement: Shiro Maguro [$MP]
Albacore tuna, also known as binnaga, is often served seared, so this preparation, garnished with ginger and scallion, was a refreshing departure from the norm. Eaten sans soy, it was creamy, pure in flavor, and aptly accented by the ginger--one of the strongest albacores that I've had.

Supplement: Uni [$MP]
Last up was uni. Cool, sweet, and creamy, the roe was expertly accentuated by its nori, gunkanmaki wrapper.

I think we were all curious as to how well Matsuhisa had held up over all these 23 years. Astonishingly, we left the restaurant pleasantly surprised. The sushi was of uniformly high quality, and the cooked dishes were utterly up to par as well. Desserts were clearly the weak point (I didn't even include them here), but that could be said for the vast majority of Japanese restaurants. All in all, given how thin Nobu's spread these days...pretty impressive.


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/08/matsuhisa-beverly-hills-ca.html

Recommended Dishes:
Santa Barbara Sweet Shrimp and Sea Urchin, Golden Eye Snapper Sashimi, Somen Noodle with Bottarga, Grilled Japanese Wagyu Ribeye and Eringi Mushroom, Seki Aji, Clear Broth with Snapper Collar

Lucques (West Hollywood, CA)
08/06/2010
I'm not sure that I'm ready to call Lucques an institution quite yet, but Suzanne Goin's seminal LA eatery is certainly headed toward that direction.

Here's what we tasted from the restaurant's seasonal, sustainable, Cal-Med menu:

sweet corn soup [$12.00] | with roasted poblanos and toasted pepitas
The meal began with a pleasant surprise. I'm not a soup kinda guy, but this one managed to turn me, at least for a night. Reading the menu, I was concerned that the dish would be overly sweet due to the corn. However, though its quintessence was forcefully and succinctly conveyed, the nutty pepitas, in concert with the tangy cilantro and heat of the poblanos, managed to successfully moderate it, allowing a stunningly beautiful amalgam of flavors to coalesce.

lamb kibbeh-nayah [$18.00] | with cucumber salad, purslane and garlic flatbread
Kibbeh refers to a minced meat dish popular in the Middle East, with kibbeh nayeh being a raw version, akin to a tartar. I loved the rich, deep flavors of the lamb here, and how it was so deftly complemented by the zing of cucumber and the cool, creamy yogurt. The flatbread, meanwhile, served as a moderating base for the whole interaction. Very nice.

ricotta dumplings [$18.00] | with summer squash, pecorino and salsa verde breadcrumbs
Dumplings arrived irregularly shaped, but tasty. Delightfully creamy with a mild tang, they were deftly accented by the salty pecorino and the refreshing savor of summer squash. Particularly enjoyable were the breadcrumbs, which added a fantastic textural element to the dish.

market fish [$29.00] | with corn, fresh garbanzos, lamb's quarters and chili-cumin butter
The market fish was sea bass, as well as my favorite dish of the meal. It was spot on texturally, with a flaky, firm, yet supple consistency paired with a fantastically crisp skin that just begged to be eaten. The bass' savory, succulent flavors were perfectly matched by the bright, bold smack of the included vegetable medley, and I loved the hint of heat courtesy of the chili-cumin.

mustard-grilled chicken [$26.00] | with young spinach, soft egg, pine nuts and parmesan pudding
Chicken oft gets overlooked on restaurant menus, but dishes such as this show that the bird can be just as big and as bold as its red-fleshed brethren. It showed off deep, dark flavors of chicken, beautifully countervailed by the sheer, runny lusciousness of the egg, while the bitter greens and zesty mustard aptly offset the bird's heft. Finishing things off here was the gorgeous nuttiness and crunch imparted by the pine nuts.

country-style pork chop [$29.00] | with cornbread-chorizo stuffing and glazed bing cherries
The pork turned out to be my least favorite course of the night. I found parts of the pig to be a bit tough in texture, and while the porcine relish that I expected was there, it was somewhat overshadowed by the cherries and cornbread stuffing. I also would've liked more spice from the chorizo.

Dessert comes to us courtesy of Pastry Chef Christina Olufson.

beignets [$12.00] | with peaches, bourbon caramel and butter pecan ice cream
Beignets were delivered piping hot and filled with luxurious, creamy, buttery goodness. They were tempered somewhat by the light, refreshing zing of peach, while the bourbon caramel added distinct boozy tinge to things. The strongest accoutrement, clearly, though, was the ice cream, with its slightly nutty relish that complemented the pastry superbly.

profiteroles [$12.00] | with vanilla ice cream, apricots, pistachios and chocolate
As good as the beignets were, I liked the profiteroles even more. Stuffed with ice cream, the globules of puff pastry were fantastic on their own, but even better when paired with the nutty bits of pistachio and fruity, tangy slices of apricot. Immensely satisfying.

A restaurant from the City's native daughter, Lucques is quintessential LA, having served up rustic, unfussy, yet sophisticated "comfort food" to hungry Angelenos for over a decade. It's classic, timeless even, but still manages to give diners a breath of fresh air at each meal. In a city forever chasing the latest fad, Lucques is exactly what we need.


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/07/lucques-west-hollywood-ca.html

Recommended Dishes:
sweet corn soup, lamb kibbeh-nayah, market fish, mustard-grilled chicken, profiteroles

LudoBites 5.0 at Gram & Papas (Los Angeles, CA)
07/29/2010
Summer is finally here, and you know what that means right? Another season of LudoBites is upon us. Following two iterations at Breadbar, a round at Royal/T, and yet another installment at Gram & Papas, LudoBites 5.0 returns to the now-famous Downtown lunch spot for another rousing rendition. This series runs from July 21 to September 3, and has proven to be the most popular so far. The story of LudoBites' online reservation system crashing after being overloaded with requests is legendary at this point, and with the first two weeks of dinner service selling out in mere minutes, I feel fortunate to have secured a coveted spot.

We, of course, tried to run the gamut, ordering everything on the menu, but were foiled when the kitchen ran out of foie gras. But here is what we *did* have:

Vadouvan Naan Bread, Salted Coconut Butter [$4.00]
This was definitely not like your typical naan. It was considerably thicker, with a pleasant fluffiness and a relish that simply "tastes like India." The flatbread was quite nice on its own, but the paired coconut butter was a superb foil, providing notes of sugar and fat that deftly countered the naan's spice. I would've preferred a crisper, flakier texture, but that's probably not feasible here, given the lack of a tandoor oven.

Cheese Cupcake, Chicken Liver & Ham Mousse, Kumquats, Cornichon [$12.00]
Ludo once did a foie gras cupcake, so it was only natural that he'd also do one utilizing chicken liver. The cupcake was actually quite cheesy at first. It was only after a second or so that the liver hit me with its unmistakable sapor, one that only seemed to grow with mastication! Balancing this whole amalgam were the zesty overtones of cornichon and kumquat.

Raw Wagyu Beef, Dried Miso, Somen Noodle, Peanut Vinaigrette, Candied Watermelon, Mint [$16.00]
This is one of Krissy's favorite dishes, and was one of mine as well. I loved the gentle savoriness of the raw wagyu, accented by peanut, and its interplay with the relative levity of the somen noodle and the overarching zing of mint. The compressed watermelon, meanwhile, provided the dish with a perfect, subtly sweet finish. Interestingly, this was somewhat reminiscent of Chinese zha jiang mian!

Grilled Squid, Heirloom Tomato Salad, Black Rice, Yuzu Red Onions, Umami Broth & Seaweed Tartar [$14.00]
Here we have another favorite of Krissy and me. The squid was cooked to a tender yet snappy perfection, with a delicate sweet brine that linked up aptly with the tomato. At the same time, I adored the use of black rice as a moderating base to the dish, as well as the tangy finish courtesy of the yuzu onions. A beautifully complex, yet cohesive course.

Goat Cheese Soup, Bacon, Lardo, Tofu, Green Apple Frisée Salad [$14.00]
The goat cheese broth, tangy yet focused in savor, set the stage for the rest of the dish, the highlight of which was the reciprocal relationship between the saltiness of the bacon-lardo and the crisp sweetness of the apple, lightened by the application of frisée. Think of this as a sort of reinterpreted Lyonnaise salad.

Poached Egg, Potato Mousseline, Santa Barbara Prawn, Chorizo Condiment [$16.00]
Another star of the show was this rather innocuous looking dish. The potato mousseline was definitely the focus here, but the key was the poached egg, which was so well integrated into the potato's flavor profile, adding a richness and depth to the dish without drawing too much attention to itself. Kicking the course up another notch was the use of spot prawns; deftly cooked to a rare consistency, their snappy, softly sugary essence was a fantastic addition to the fray.

Grilled Octopus, Oregano, Grilled Hazelnut Polenta, Pineapple Aioli, Piment D'Espelette Gelée [$16.00]
I was a bit surprised to see both squid and octopus on the menu, but I rather liked this as well. Taken alone, the octopus, soft and supple in texture, showed off a fantastic mix of sweet, brine, and char. It went gorgeously with the piquant piment d'espelette, and was expertly tempered by the polenta (one of the best I've had, in fact). My only issue was with the aioli, which was a bit overpowering at times.

Cheese Plate [$22.00]
• Goat Gouda with Pear Kimchi Chutney - Gouda is usually made with cow's milk, so I was surprised to see a goat version. In any case, this was a mild, clean, slightly nutty cheese, good alone but beautifully balanced by the sweet and salty kimchi. My favorite of the trio.
• Gres Des Vosges (Cow) with Whole Grain Mustard, Honey Comb - Here we have a delicately salty, earthy cheese from the Alsace region of France. Very nice with the classic accoutrements of honey and mustard.
• Bleu des Causses (Cow) with Apricots-Lavender - A cheese plate just wouldn't be complete without a bleu in the mix. Here we had a rather mild one, with a slightly grainy texture and salty nature that played rather well with its saccharine, floral accompaniment.

Day Boat Cod, Torched Uni, Ratatouille, Red Bell Pepper Pickles, Black Curry [$28.00]
I first tried a bite of the cod alone, and found it characteristically briny in savor. The application of uni did a great job in countervailing the potency of the fish, but the crux here were the various vegetables presented. They gave the dish a tart, vegetal sweetness that worked absolutely flawlessly with the fish, really completing the dish for me. However, I did find the flavor of the black curry overly apparent; the course would've been just fine without it.

Steamed Duck, Lemon Verbena, Crispy Skin Puree, White Peach, Radish, Balsamic [$26.00]
I don't think I've ever had steamed duck before, so this was a first for me. I found its taste very "duck-y" indeed--strong, savory, somewhat smoky flavors with a real depth. At the same time, the bird was deftly counterpoised by the crunchy tang of radish, and the skin purée was intriguing to say the last. I didn't quite understand the inclusion of the whole white peach, however.

Confit Pork Belly, Raw Choucroute Thai Style, Guinness Emulsion [$24.00]
Our last savory was another favorite of mine. The pork, cooked confit, was as you'd expect: rich, fatty, tender to the point of falling apart, and imbued with indelible porcine sapor. The pig's considerable heft was adroitly offset by the superb Thai-style sauerkraut, which lent a lovely South East Asian tinge to the entire dish.

Campfire Smoked S'mores, Guacamole Sorbet [$12.00]
Talking to various people at the restaurant, I found that the guacamole sorbet was often a point of contention. I personally didn't mind it, finding its contribution to the dessert rather appropriate. My issue was actually with the s'more itself, which had a distinct spiciness to it (courtesy of chipotle) that I found a bit disconcerting.

Caramel Soufflé, Blanco Grapefruit, Fleur De Sel Ice Cream [$14.00]
I preferred the soufflé, which demonstrated an unabashed sugariness and egginess that was skillfully accented by the savoriness of the ice cream. However, I did feel that the grapefruit was a bit too apparent, drawing undue attention to itself at the detriment of other ingredients.

I will say, without equivocation, that LudoBites 5.0 is the strongest iteration yet. The cuisine seemed particularly well conceived, as well as more confident, more articulate; for the most part, everything just worked, an especially impressive feat given that it was the pop-up's first night. I look forward to returning later on in the series to see how the cooking's progressed!


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/07/ludobites-50-at-gram-papas-los-angeles.html

Recommended Dishes:
Raw Wagyu Beef, Dried Miso, Somen Noodle, Peanut Vinaigrette, Candied Watermelon, Mint, Grilled Squid, Heirloom Tomato Salad, Black Rice, Yuzu Red Onions, Umami Broth & Seaweed Tartar, Poached Egg, Potato Mousseline, Santa Barbara Prawn, Chorizo Condiment, Grilled Octopus, Oregano, Grilled Hazelnut Polenta, Pineapple Aioli, Piment D'Espelette Gelée, Confit Pork Belly, Raw Choucroute Thai Style, Guinness Emulsion

Patina (Los Angeles, CA) [2]
07/05/2010
Patina has always been one of the standbys in the LA dining scene--never really drawing too much attention to itself, but consistently reliable, a bastion of fine dining for hungry Angelenos. And since its inception in 1989, the restaurant has served as the proving ground for a generation of chefs, the newst of which is Patina's latest Executive Chef: Tony Esnault, who is, according to S. Irene Virbila, "the best chef that founder Joachim Splichal has had in years."

The menu now is largely Cal-French, with perhaps less Italian influence than its had in the past. Diners are normally greeted with à la carte selections and a choice of two tasting menus, but, as mentioned above, we opted for the Chef's Table, which features a special degustation normally priced at $145pp, plus $70 for wine pairings.

Amuse Bouche: Velvety Nettle Velouté | BURGUNDY SNAILS, CELERY, FENNEL
Our meal began with a resplendently verdant velouté imbued with the very essence of celery. Not being a fan of the vegetable, I appreciated how its flavor was apparent, yet somehow restrained. To this potage, Esnault adds a trio of Burgundian snails, wonderfully textured, with a great savory butteriness to boot. The greenness of the celery and fennel combination deftly tempered the weight of the escargots, while the tiny buckwheat galette mixed things up texturally. All in all, a strong start to the meal--when I was finished with everything, I even made sure to sop up the remaining broth with my bread.

1: Marinated Hamachi | GEODUCK, CUCUMBER VINEGAR, AVOCADO, CROSTINI, GREEN APPLE MUSTARD
The meal proper began with a hamachi sashimi dish, a version of which I had at Adour back in December 2008. I preferred this iteration. The fish itself was stronger, showing a somewhat fatty, fishy character that one'd expect with good yellowtail. It was tasty alone, but the crux was the geoduck slivers, which added a sweet brine to the amalgam that really intensified the hamachi. Countering the yellowtail were a variety of accoutrements that aptly played off each other and the fish: the tantalizing sweetness of apple, the crunch and salt of the crostini, the cool crispness of cucumber, and the creaminess of avocado. The array of accompaniments was especially effective when paired with the stone fruit-floral-mineral notes and bright acidity of the paired Vinho Verde.

2: Duck Foie Gras Terrine | PEACH CHUTNEY AND SALAD, BASIL LEAVES, TOASTED COUNTRY BREAD
Next, we were presented with a slender parallelepiped of foie gras, the sapor of which was unmistakably liver-y in essence, and which seemed to heighten with continued mastication. I'm typically wary of overly fruity concomitants, but I was surprised how effective, and how apt, the peach was in this application--it had just the right amount of sweetness to accent the foie. The flaky country bread, meanwhile, served as a fantastic temper and base for the liver.

3: Seasonal Vegetable Mosaic | "JUS DE CUISSON," LEMON OIL
Here, Esnault presents one of his most well-known dishes, which can almost be compared to a cooked, composed, and compressed version of Michel Bras' famed gargouillou. It is a skyline of seasonal vegetables, bathed in "cooking juice," with minute dollops of lemon oil. I do not recall the exact list of ingredients, but surely included in the admixture were beet, turnip, carrot, asparagus, celeriac, and radish. The result was a hefty, rustic, almost stew-like dish, cohesive, yet with each vegetable clear and distinct in character. Fortunately, it was noticeably less sugary than the version at Adour, good news for the paired Vouvray.

Supplement: Creamy Morels Risotto | ASPARAGUS, PARMIGIANO REGGIANO
The risotto on my last Patina visit was revelatory. This version didn't quite achieve such lofty heights, but still was nonetheless quite tasty, albeit a touch overdone. The use of morels lent a heady, smoky, earthy savor to the risotto, which, along with the Parmesan, was perfectly countered by the light, bright notes of the greens.

4: Butter Poached Maine Lobster | HARICOTS VERTS, SUGAR SNAP PEAS, FAVA BEANS, ENGLISH PEAS, "JUS DE LA PRESSE"
The lobster was some of the best I've had in a while--supple yet snappy, with its inherent sweet brine still intact and brilliant, but augmented by the luxuriousness of butter. Further weight was added by the accompanying lobster jus, tarted up with the inclusion of white wine and Armagnac, while the vibrant veggies did wonders in adding a countervailing force to the dish. Very nice, especially when eaten with the Chard, a slightly oaky, citrus-tinged, quintessential pair with lobster.

5: Dorade Royal "Au Plat" | FENNEL, ZUCCHINI, EGGPLANT, "RIVIERA JUS"
Dorade, a.k.a. orata or gilt-head bream, is a fish that I don't get to enjoy too often, which is a shame, because it was excellent here. Prepared tableside by General Manager Christian Philippo, the fish had just the right amount of brine, a fantastically savory flavor that was just what I was looking for. Its consistency was soft, yet with a bit of resistance--spot on, really, some of the best cooked fish I've had in a long time.

6: Californian Squab Cooked "en Cocotte" | WILD MUSHROOMS, ENGLISH PEAS
Squab rarely disappoints, and this was no exception. In fact, it was one of the strongest preparations I've had to date. The confit leg was dense, heavy, falling-off-the-bone tender, but the real star of the show was the sous vide breast. It had a particularly prodigious, profound, immensely satisfying relish that I absolutely adored. The bird easily stood alone, but I did also enjoy the rich, umami-soaked smack of the mushrooms, as well as the relative levity of the peas.

7: Strawberry Composition | TARRAGON AND ARUGULA GRANITÉ, YOGURT SORBET
Strawberries in various forms--sliced, glass, jus--were vibrant both in flavor and color, while the herbaceousness of tarragon and arugula served as an intriguing counterpoint to the sweetness of the fruit. The yogurt, on the other hand, moderated the whole interaction, and the "dessert crouton" provided some textural variation.

8: Crispy Chocolate Hazelnut | CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, BURNT SUGAR ICE CREAM
Upon seeing this dish, I was instantly reminded of Michael Voltaggio's "Fool's Gold," as well as Michel Richard's "Kit Kat Bar." Flavor wise, it wasn't too far off either; the hazelnut provided a great bit of nuttiness to offset the overt sugariness of the chocolate, while the ice cream served as a fitting accent. I rather enjoyed the dessert's lovely, crisp-creamy texture as well.

After the meal, Chef Esnault and I chatted for a bit about how business has been affected by the state of the economy, with more and more people shying away from fine dining in the classic sense. I personally think that the "LA" mentality plays a part, too, but nevertheless, it's great to see that Patina is still serving up one of the City's remaining "traditional" fine dining experiences, and the food is probably better than ever, too. With Esnault at the helm now, a revisit to this gastronomic institution, this grande dame of LA dining, is a proposition worth considering.


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/07/patina-los-angeles-ca-2.html

Recommended Dishes:
Velvety Nettle Velouté, Marinated Hamachi, Butter Poached Maine Lobster, Dorade Royal "Au Plat", Californian Squab Cooked "en Cocotte", Crispy Chocolate Hazelnut

Grace (Los Angeles, CA) [2]
06/22/2010
My last visit to Grace was a bit of a letdown, but I'd always wanted to return and give Neal Fraser's contemporary American eatery another shot. Grace is, of course, closing and moving to Downtown, so the final night of service at its location on Beverly gave me the perfect opportunity to revisit.

Grace's menu changes periodically, though there are a few standbys, such as the "Grilled Tenderloin of Wild Boar," which has been on the carte since Virbila's 2-star review back in 2003 (she didn't care for it, by the way). We, naturally, gravitated toward the tasting menus. There's a five-courser at $65, but we all went for the seven-course Chef's Menu, priced at $100, plus $60 for Wine Director Eduardo Porto Carreiro's pairings.

1: Sashimi of Japanese Hamachi | fennel, radish, california olive oil, sea beans
One thing that I've always found peculiar at Grace is the lack of an amuse bouche (typically a de rigueur flourish at fine dining establishments); thus, we'll jump right into the first course. Eaten alone, the fish was prototypical yellowtail, with a soft, slightly fatty flesh and clean, yet somewhat oily essence. What I really enjoyed, though, was the acerbic tang of radish and fennel, which formed a great counterpoint to the relatively hefty hamachi, as well as the depth of flavor imparted by the olive oil. Finishing things off was a great tinge of sea salt on the close.

2: Sautéed Day Boat Scallop | english pea risotto, morel mushrooms, asparagus, basil nage
Following was one of the best scallops that I've had in a while. I loved its firm, yet supple consistency--a perfect combination of raw and cooked textures--as well as its delightfully caramelized exterior and delicate flavor. The use of morels gave the dish a substantial, heady earthiness, but the best part was the interaction between the scallop and its bright, verdant, vegetal asparagus- and basil-infused broth. Interestingly, the only element I didn't quite care for here was the lobster, which seemed totally redundant, and rather overcooked to boot.

3: Olive Oil Poached Halibut | brandade, horseradish cream, sherry gelée
Given that I'm somewhat of a salt cod slut, I was quite excited about the brandade in this course. The fluffy cod fritter, not the halibut, was the real star of the show here, with a tremendously briny flavor that went surprisingly well with the more subdued nature of the halibut. The whole amalgam was perked up properly by the prick of piquancy provided by the sherry, which worked beautifully with the saltiness of the fish.

4: Sautéed Channel Island White Sea Bass | white beans, artichokes barigoule, pistou
Here we have another very strong presentation of fish, this time a white sea bass. The bass itself was actually quite delectable, a tender, flaky filet with a piercing savoriness, augmented by the fish's fantastically crisp, salty skin. I also appreciated the sea bass' interplay with the pistou (basil, garlic, olive oil), as well as the gravity contributed by the white beans. The artichoke, however, wasn't necessary for me.

5: Slow Cooked Egg | spring onions, pork belly, chanterelle mushrooms, white asparagus
It's hard to go wrong with slow cooked egg, and this certainly was no exception to the rule. It really lent a luscious, all-encompassing creaminess to the dish that did wonders in emphasizing the saltiness of the crispy pork belly and bacon, while adding to the earthy heft of the chanterelles. The onions and asparagus, thus, were absolutely key in tempering the power of the dish. Very nice.

6: Oven Roasted Suckling Pig | potato gnocchi, chanterelle mushrooms, white asparagus, pork jus
Our final savory of the evening was a surprisingly rustic preparation of pig. I found the meat enchantingly tender, succulent, with a robust "pork-y" sapor and a wonderfully crisp skin, and I quite appreciated how the asparagus, in concert with the corn succotash, moderated the ponderosity of the pork. I wasn't nearly as keen on the gnocchi, though.

7a: Sticky Toffee Pudding | brûléed bananas, toffee sauce, hazelnut gelato
Interestingly, instead of the entire table getting the same dessert, we were instead given a selection of five of Swan's creations to share. The pudding was nice enough, and sort of reminded me of a boozy chocolate cake. The toffee definitely enhanced the richness of the dessert, and the bananas were a fitting complement as well.

7b: Chocolate Soufflé Cake Affogato | vanilla malt ice cream, toasted almonds, espresso syrup
The soufflé was more interesting, as it had an espresso syrup that I found quite becoming, complementing the heavy flavors of the cake nicely. I didn't get much in terms of almonds, though I did appreciate the tempering effect of the ice cream.

7c: Honeyed Pain Perdu | lavender ice cream, meyer lemon curd, pistachios
This was actually my least favorite of the desserts, though certainly, I didn't mind eating it. The pain perdu, by itself, had a subtle, slightly savory sweetness to it with an almost banana-esque flair, and I also liked the pistachio crumbles. However, the lemon curd was too strong for my tastes, and rather overwhelmed the rest of the dish.

7d: Salt & Pepper Caramel Doughnut | mascarpone ice cream
DTAB had warned me that the doughnuts didn't live up to their former glory, so I was a bit wary going in. Fortunately, I'm happy to report that Grace's signature desserts did not disappoint. The S&P variety demonstrated plenty of sticky caramel character, but I was intrigued, and pleased, by the bit of savoriness that I tasted, especially on the finish.

7e: Buttermilk Toasted Coconut Doughnut | mascarpone ice cream
As much as I enjoyed the previous doughnuts, I liked these even more. The buttermilk lent an amazing flavor to the dessert, and the use of coconut gave things an almost nutty character, while adding some textural variation as well. In fact, the entire assemblage reminded me a bit of a Danish butter cookie! Loved the mascarpone ice cream too.

All things considered, this was pretty damn good meal--Grace, consider yourself redeemed. The food this time around seemed much more robust, confident, gutsy. It was sophisticated, polished, yet approachable and familiar--exactly what it should be.

So what's next for Fraser and company? Well, Grace will be resurrected in Downtown at the corner of 2nd and Main, inside the rectory building of the old Vibiana Cathedral, with an estimated opening date of sometime in the first half of 2011. Interestingly, this isn't the first time Fraser's considered DTLA: way back in 2007, he was slated to open a "hybrid" between Grace and BLD there. In any case, this space at 7360 Beverly has been taken over by Rivera's John Sedlar, who plans to open up a down-market version of his eponymous restaurant here. In the mean time, Grace's team is still available for catering gigs, if you're so inclined, and apparently, another BLD will be opening in Pasadena (at the corner of Holly and Raymond) sometime this year.


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/06/grace-los-angeles-ca-2.html

Recommended Dishes:
Sautéed Day Boat Scallop, Sautéed Channel Island White Sea Bass, Slow Cooked Egg, Salt & Pepper Caramel Doughnut, Buttermilk Toasted Coconut Doughnut

Bistro LQ (Los Angeles, CA)
06/15/2010
When I first got into this whole food blogging game back in '06, I remember hearing rave reviews of Bistro K, where Chef Laurent Quenioux was rocking the culinary establishment of South Pas with his groundbreaking, game-philic, modern French-eclectic cuisine. I never made it out to Bistro K, sadly, but I do remember hearing about its closure in 2007. When Quenioux debuted Bistro LQ in 2009, he once again captured my attention. LQ had always been near the top of my "to-eat" list, but some for reason, the restaurant always got lost in the shuffle, and I never made it out...until now.

What I love the most about LQ's varied menu is the availability of half portions, which, of course, makes it easy to try out as many dishes of possible. Six- and nine-course tasting menus are on offer, but it's understandable that you might be tempted to create your own. That's what we initially thought, but the Chef decided to present to us a spontaneous degustation, on top of some of the dishes we ordered.

Dungeness Crab and Calamari Salad [$9.00] | Fennel Apple Slaw with Chorizo Vinaigrette, Avocado Gratin with Pistachio
I'm generally not huge on salads, but of course, I'll make an exception when the headlining ingredient is crab. Indeed, the crustacean was the star of the course, showing off a supple yet firm texture backed by a fantastic briny smack. The crab was especially gratifying when taken with the creamy heft of the charred avocado, while the matchsticks of apple gave the dish a satisfying crunch and subtle sweetness that really enhanced the crab's natural savor. Overall, a light, bright dish with clean, crisp flavors, perfect for summer snacking.

Smoked Haddock Pancake [$9.00] | Marinated In Olive Oil, Blinis Pancake, Ricotta Lemon Mousse and American Sevruga Caviar
I don't even remember the last time that I had haddock; a search on my site yields no results, which is a shame, as I rather enjoyed the fish. The taste at first was delightfully smoky actually, and this subsequently yielded to the sharp salty, lingering sting of the Sevruga, moderated by the cool ricotta mousse and hearty blini. Classic flavors here, but with a twist.

Uni [$9.00] | Sea Urchin Tapioca Pudding, Yuzu Kosho, Kumamoto Oysters in Lobster Gelée
We have here an absolutely fascinating presentation of sea urchin. The tapioca did a great job in augmenting the uni's natural sugariness, and the pearls also provided a playful textural counterpoint. The gelée, on the other hand, was rather profoundly imbued with the essence of lobster, and aided by the oysters, it emphasized the urchin's briny character. Two sides of the same coin, in effect. Interestingly, I didn't get much in terms of the yuzukosho (a condiment comprised of yuzu, chili, and salt), normally a very prominent ingredient.

Foie Gras 3 Ways [$17.00] | Torchon: Violette Scented, Spring Vegetables Russian salad / Terrine: Wasabi Marshmallow and Yuzu Gelée / Sautéed: Oxtail, Frisée with Rose Oil Vinaigrette
I began with the seared style, which, surprisingly, turned out to be my favorite of the troika. It was paired with oxtail, and the interaction between these two heavyweights was perfect. They balanced each other out so beautifully, all under the overarching levity of the frisée--very good. The torchon was next, and it displayed floral, delicate flavors of foie, aptly balanced by the "Russian salad." The earl grey-bergamot "rolls", meanwhile, provided a fascinating sugariness that tied the preparation together. And finally, my dear old friend terrine. This one really showed off the unbridled nature of foie gras--its sweetness, its intensity--all balanced by a bit of salt; the included wasabi marshmallow and yuzu gelée were artful, but unneeded accoutrements: the foie stands alone.

Head Cheese [$7.00] | Frisée Salad, Anchovy Emulsion, Poached Yolk
The head cheese (which, by the way, isn't a cheese at all, but rather an amalgam of animal head flesh and gelatinous binder), surprisingly, was rather mild in savor, and thus the anchovy was critical in giving the dish its lip-smacking saltiness. This all was tempered somewhat by the combination of creamy, luscious egg yolk and light frisée, which, as we've learned from the omnipresent salade lyonnaise, is always a winning combination.

Duck Breast | Wild Mushroom, Cassis Sauce
Next up was a shockingly conventional, but nevertheless delicious, presentation of duck. I was rather afraid that the bird would be overwhelmed by the cassis dressing, but actually, it was superbly restrained in sweetness. It played extremely well with the duck's inherently savory nature, which was further bolstered by the use of mushrooms. Nice.

Seared Foie Gras | Sweet Peas, Beef Gelée, Nameko Mushroom Broth
Here we enjoyed another very strong preparation of hot foie gras. Intense in liver-y sapor at first, the foie was deftly mitigated by the peas, which lent an enveloping vegetalness to the entire dish that was absolutely key for me. I did, however, find the gelatinous nature of the nameko mushrooms rather disconcerting.

Scallop | Fava, Shishito Purée, Balsamic, Mirabelle Coulis
A singular scallop, splendidly seared, yet subtly saccharine, augmented by the great earthy flavor of fava and the sweet-hot relish of shishito. Finishing things off was a lingering sugariness imparted by the balsamic. I could've used another.

Monkfish | Ramp Tempura, Potato Leek Broth
Monkfish showed off its characteristically firm, spongy consistency here, along with a muted flavor that was dutifully, and deliberately amplified by the essence of potato and leek. I adored the ramp tempura, with its pronounced, onion-y flavor and wonderfully crisp exterior--a near polar opposite of the fish.

Veal Sweetbreads | Potato Coulis, Comté, Peas
Sweetbreads, naturally, can be a very commanding main ingredient, so I really appreciated how the potato here served as a sort of moderating basis, a stage on which the sweetbreads could, in concert with the peas--and what peas--really shine. I've never had them done quite like this before.

Hanger Steak | Black Sesame, Shishito Purée, Root Vegetables, Bonito, Miso
The steak was prepared to such a tender consistency that mastication was largely optional. Even more striking, however, was the meat's sesame crust--upon tasting the course, I immediately thought of the Chinese dish tan yuan! As fascinating as the use of sesame was, it was perhaps a bit much, as I would've preferred a more apparent beefiness to go along with the rustic preparations of vegetables.

Gianduja Cake | Rhum Crème Anglaise, Butterscotch Tapioca, White Chocolate Ice Cream
I attacked this course from left to right. First off, the use of hazelnut in the gianduja made for a chocolate cake that was a pleasant departure from the norm; I appreciated its fabulously moist body and restrained sweetness. The tapioca, meanwhile, was the most interesting element on the plate, with a cool, mild flavor backed by the sheer decadence of butterscotch. And finally, we end with white chocolate ice cream. It's hard to go wrong with that, especially when it's paired with more of that delightful pistachio.

Coming into Bistro LQ, I expected my palate to be challenged, my taste buds taken for a spin. In that regard, Quenioux delivered, and certainly, then, the restaurant easily rises above its mere "bistro" moniker. The cuisine is smart, sophisticated, whimsical, and sometimes downright weird; it is, according to the Chef, "an orgy derived from the alchemy of the flavors and the senses," and for that, I am thankful. This is some of the most ambitious, adventurous, audacious food that the City has to offer; LQ is simply too alluring for me not to return.


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/06/bistro-lq-los-angeles-ca.html

Recommended Dishes:
Dungeness Crab and Calamari Salad, Foie Gras 3 Ways, Seared Foie Gras, Veal Sweetbreads, Gianduja Cake

WP24 (Los Angeles, CA)
06/15/2010
Though Wolfgang Puck did not by himself create the Asian fusion genre, you can't argue that he helped popularize and legitimatize the cuisine with his seminal Cal-Asian eatery Chinois on Main. Since then, Puck has debuted a countless number of places, but WP24, on the 24th floor of the new Ritz-Carlton at LA Live, represents his first full service Asian restaurant since the ill-fated ObaChine chain of the late 1990s. Though the contemporary Chinese-influenced menu at WP24 was developed by Puck and Lee Hefter (Puck's Corporate Executive Chef), daily execution of the line is the task of Chef de Cuisine David McIntyre.

We all went for the 9 Course Tasting Menu option, priced at $125 (add $70 for wine), though clearly, we received well in excess of the specified number of courses.

Spring Rolls | Maine Lobster, Prawns, 10 Spice Honey
WP24's spring rolls are subtly sweet, monolithic half-cylinders of dense, spongy, shrimp-y goodness, wrapped up and tied off with sheaths of delightfully crisp wrapping paper. Tasty enough on their own, the rolls were deftly augmented by the paired 10-Spice dip, the sweetness of which nicely emphasized the crustaceans' natural savor. A simple, but satisfying dish.

Wagyu Beef Turnovers
Wagyu beef in puff pastry? It's hard to go wrong with that combination. This Chinese-inspired "empanada" was stuffed with softly spicy, richly flavored, immensely succulent beef that was superbly subdued by its crisp, flaky crust. I could've eaten an entire plate.

Steamed Baby Bao Buns | Sautéed Duck Liver, Sweet Bean Paste, Sour Ume Plums
What we have here looks like foie gras, smells like foie gras, and tastes like foie gras, but apparently, it's just plain old duck liver. It was also mahhh-velous, one of the best preparations of hot foie gras--I mean, duck liver--that I've had in a while. The sweetness from the bean paste was just powerful enough, and I loved how the liver's potency was so effectively countered by the zesty scallion and cucumber.

Chili "Dan Dan" Dumplings | Organic Chicken, Chili Garlic Sauce, Crushed Peanuts, Green Onion
Next up was a Sichuan-ish dish, in the same vein as hot and sour wontons. The pleasingly piquant, pungent chili-garlic dressing did a great job in perking up the otherwise tame dumplings, while the use of green onions added a great vegetal smack to the dish. The peanuts were a nice touch as well.

Chinese Spring Chive Crystal Dumplings | Alaskan King Crab, Shrimp, Kurobuta Pork
One of my favorites bites of the meal came courtesy of these dumplings. The amalgam of crab, shrimp, and pork resulted in a delectable mishmash of savory flavors that went perfectly with the soft astringency of chive. What was arguably better, though, was the dumplings' flawless wrapper, a fantastic combination of soft chewiness and pan-fried firmness. The mustard, meanwhile, contributed an impeccable heat to complete the dish.

Crispy Glazed Wolfe Ranch Quail | Garlic, Dried Chilies, Ginger, Black Chinkiang Vinegar, Rice Stick Salad
The next course was a bit of a mess to look at, but fortunately, it tasted much better than it looked. The bird had a sort of "sweet & sour" type citrus-y glaze, which imparted a fitting sugariness on the otherwise savory, succulent flesh, but the best part of this dish was its soft, subtle spiciness that really creeps up on you. I also enjoyed the great crunch of the quail's skin, as well as how the paired salad moderated the heft of the meat.

Spicy Assam Prawns "Indian Spiced" | Curry Leaves, Garlic, Mustard, Yogurt, Cardamom, Fenugreek
Here, the kitchen takes a departure from China and lands squarely in India. I enjoyed the interaction between the prawns' natural sapor and the sweet-spicy essence of the crustaceans' aromatic, heady, curried accoutrement. The use of coriander, meanwhile, gave the prawns a strong vegetal close. I actually quite liked the dish, but unfortunately, it got a bit cold since it was paired with the next course.

"Angry Lobster" Two-Pound Live Maine | Spicy Szechuan Chilies, Fried Garlic, Calamansi Lime, Black Bean Dust
It was a poor decision to plate this and the prawns together, as both dishes were compromised. In addition, the lobster was not presented to the table prior to plating (as the prawns were), another service faux pas. In any case, this was a wok'd presentation of lobster, one imbued with the familiar, hefty Chinese flavors of chili and black bean, perked up a notch by the calamondin. It was tasty enough, but some at the table felt--rightfully so--that the inherent nature of lobster was lost in the dish.

XO Fried Rice | Maine Lobster, Fried Shallots, Budding Chives
When I was young, I remember thinking that XO sauce was actually made from XO cognac. Though cognac, especially of the XO variety, is a popular libation in many parts of China, the sauce is actually merely an amalgam of dried seafood and various spices. That being said, here, it contributed a touch of ocean-y flair that nicely complemented the lobster, the inherent flavor of which was nicely preserved in the dish. Overall, a delicious presentation of fried rice.

Whole Roasted Duckling "Peking Style" with Traditional Garnishes
At this point, we come to the pièce de résistance. An entire roast duck was ushered out to our table to whet our palates, then brought back to the kitchen for slicing. We were subsequently presented with plates of the bird's dark, delectable skin and flesh. The meat was actually too heavy, too intense--it took on an almost foie gras-like richness--to eat alone. But pair the duck with the included accompaniments of hoisin, sugar, radish, cucumber, scallion, and steamed bun, and now you're on to something! The vegetables, in concert with the buns, did a perfect job in countervailing the sweet heft of the meat, resulting in stunningly balanced, simply stupendous bites.

Hong Kong Soft Noodles | Golden Spring Chives, Wild Field Mushrooms
To go along with the duck, we were provided bowls of Hong Kong-style noodles. They were a bit too oily for me, and thus made for a rather heavy dish. I did, however, enjoy the complementary flavors of mushroom and chive.

"Szechuan Style" Steak "Au Poivre" | Smoked Chili-Shallot Sauce, Scallions, Cilantro, "La You" Hot Oil
Chinese food isn't known for its use of high-quality cuts of beef, but the American wagyu here was every bit as stellar as the steaks Puck serves at CUT. This Sino-ized steak au poivre was incredulously tender--mastication was barely necessary--with a great bit of lingering, peppery spice that was beautifully tempered by the scallions and cilantro. A table favorite, with good reason.

Hunan Spicy Eggplant | Roasted Shishito Peppers, Chili, Crisp Garlic
Given that I'm not a huge fan of eggplant in general, I wasn't terribly keen on this dish, which was meant to accompany the steak. The aubergines themselves were melt-in-your-mouth tender, but I much preferred the shishitos and garlic.

A restaurant like WP24 has the potential to turn out horribly, horribly wrong, but fortunately, I was quite pleased with my experience here. I think that the place is much more than merely a "Chinois on Olympic." It seems like WP24's a step up in terms of finesse and execution, and I'd wager that it's more traditionally Chinese as well--which brings up a good point. The food here didn't strike me as all that "fusion-y," so to speak; for the most part, it seemed strongly based in classic Chinese cookery, but with a few twists here and there--Puck does Chinese, in effect. That's not a bad thing, mind you, as I found the food here superior to that at many "authentic" Chinese restaurants. WP24 may be gentrified, unabashedly expensive, even a touch obscene, but it's pretty damn tasty, too.


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/06/wp24-los-angeles-ca.html

Recommended Dishes:
Wagyu Beef Turnovers, Steamed Baby Bao Buns, Chinese Spring Chive Crystal Dumplings, Whole Roasted Duckling "Peking Style" with Traditional Garnishes, "Szechuan Style" Steak "Au Poivre"

Red O (Los Angeles, CA)
05/27/2010
"Mexican Cuisine by Rick Bayless"

Exciting words, these. However, it must be noted that Rick Bayless won't be cooking at Red O on a regular basis, nor does he have an ownership interest in the business. The actual owners are the dynamic duo of Mike Dobson and Rick Teasta, the founders of Santa Ana-based oil changery EZ Lube. The two have been partners for over two decades, but were best buddies before that, first meeting while working as doormen at the Red Onion in Redondo Beach. Red O, thus, pays homage to that original restaurant.

Nevertheless, Bayless is responsible for developing the menu, and also took charge of teaching the staff, many of whom were brought to Chicago to train. Running the kitchens on a day-to-day basis, thus, is the realm of Executive Chef Michael Brown (of Patina Group and Wolfgang Puck Catering).

The menu at Red O is rather vast, and features a variety of more traditional Mexican fare, as well as a number of "Cal-Mex" dishes. We tried to sample dishes from all over the menu:

Classic Guacamole [$9.00] | freshly made, chunky, with warm chips & salsa
The guac was a must-order item, and indeed, it did not disappoint. I loved the dip's onion-y tang and tartish citrus finish, all intermixed with the lush creaminess of avocado. Overall, a very good guacamole.

Grilled Mazatlan Blue Shrimp Tostaditas [$10.00] | roasted garlic mojo, avocado with fresh jícama "chips"
This was a surprisingly complex, balanced dish with rich flavors of blue shrimp, perked up by a bit of bite courtesy of the garlic. The crisp, refreshing counterpoint imparted by the jicama was much appreciated.

Alaskan Halibut Ceviche [$12.50] | cilantro-serrano "chimichurri", cucumber, avocado
Here was a substantial ceviche, with the luxuriousness of the avocado beautifully moderating the considerable heft of the halibut, while the "chimichurri" added pricks of heat to the palate. Unfortunately, the flavors here were a bit overshadowed by the other, more aggressive courses served at the same time.

Woodland Mushrooms Ceviche [$10.00] | grilled knob onion, sun-dried tomato, serrano chile
You don't see many mushrooms ceviches around, but this dish turned out to be one of my favorites of the night. I loved the interplay of the earthy mushrooms with the sweet and vegetal notes of its various accoutrements, and how the heat of the serrano built up so eloquently on the long, lingering finish.

Shredded Creekstone Beef Short Rib Sopes [$9.00] | roasted tomato-green chile sauce
As expected, the beef itself was wonderfully tender, with rich, dark, hearty flavors, flavors which were augmented even further by the application of cheese. I really enjoyed the subtle smokiness imparted by the roasted tomato-chili dressing, but my favorite part was how the stout cylinders of corn masa so deftly tempered the meat's substantial gravity.

Gleason Ranch Pork Belly Sopes [$8.00] | black beans, salsa negra, sesame
It was interesting to compare these sopes with the preceding short rib versions. The flavors were actually noticeably more in-your-face, a smoky-sweet blast of salsa negra that really helped in cutting the fattiness of the pork belly. And again, I absolutely adored the little bites of masa.

Slow-Cooked Sonoma Duck Taquitos [$9.00] | tomato-árbol chile sauce, arugula
I found the duck here immensely flavorful actually, and quite liked how it played with the subtly spicy sauce. The arugula, meanwhile, contributed a slightly astringent contrast, but wasn't absolutely necessary for me. Nevertheless, a very enjoyable dish.

Chicken Tamale [$8.00] | herby Oaxacan yellow mole, banana leaf
Here, what struck me first was the great exchange of flavors between the delightfully piquant mole, tasty chicken, and tangy onion. Arguably the best part of the course, though, was the corn masa, which had a wonderfully profound taste that complemented the chicken perfectly. Easily one of the best tamales I've ever had.

Homemade Chorizo Sausage Queso Fundido [$8.50] | roasted poblano chiles
Cheese and chorizo, how can you go wrong? We're talking about enchantingly mild, melted Vella Sonoma Jack, paired with the subtly smoky, vegetal zest of peppers, all with the overarching saltiness and spice imparted by the chorizo. Superb with the included tortillas.

Sonoma County Lamb in Chile Colorado Cazuela for Soft Tacos [$13.50] | ancho & guajillo chiles, roasted garlic, cumin, black beans
A lovely lamb dish, with heavy, rich, "lamb-y" flavors aptly accompanied by a sweet-smoky-spicy ancho-guajillo sauce and an earthy entourage of black beans. This was delicious but a bit overpowering when eaten alone--tortillas are a must.

Achiote-Marinated Catfish Tacos al Carbon [$15.50] | roasted poblano rajas, bacon-flavored charro beans, grilled knob onions, salsas
I first tried some of the catfish alone, and found it smoky, yet subtle and delicate, with a great texture. I then grabbed a tortilla, applied the various trappings, and chowed down. The resultant amalgamation was tasty enough, but I did feel that the sapor of the catfish was a bit lost in the fray--go easy on the accessories.

Pollo en Mole Poblano [$22.00] | grilled Mary's young chicken, homemade mole poblano, black beans, watercress salad
Here, we were served two surprisingly large portions of chicken, which I found quite tender--albeit a touch dry--with a very pure, yet very mild flavor. It was a canvas on which the mole could really sing. The sauce itself, interestingly enough, was by far the most nuanced version I've tasted. It had the trademark flavors of sweet, smoky, and spicy, but the savor was far more integrated with the chicken than I'd imagined it would be--so complex, layered, confident.

Cochinita Pibil [$26.00] | tortilla-fed Gleason Ranch suckling pig, achiote-marinated & slow-cooked in banana leaves, black beans, pickled red onions, roasted habanero salsa
I'm a huge fan of Rivera's "Maya puerco pibil" dish, so I just had to get Red O's version. I still like Rivera's version better, which I find more succulent, though this, nonetheless, was a valiant effort. The meat was suitably tender, yet not without a bit of bite, which I appreciated. I quite enjoyed the pig's rich, deep flavors, perked up by a bit of achiote and countered by the application of arugula.

Tinga Poblana [$22.00] | braised Gleason Ranch pork shoulder & belly, homemade chorizo, roasted tomatoes, smoked chipotle, Yukon gold potatoes, avocado, queso fresco
I actually preferred the tinga preparation of pork, which really represented a great mix of lean and fat meat, with a lovely char and great lingering spice. I was especially fond of the potatoes, which grounded and tempered the dish. One of the highlights of the meal for me.

Mexican food in the United States has come a long way since Bayless began his culinary career--it's no longer simply about burritos, cheese on everything, nachos, iceberg lettuce, and Taco Bell. Old habits die hard, however, and I applaud Bayless and his contemporaries for elevating the status of the cuisine, giving it the respect that it rightfully deserves. In any case, for me, Red O is a welcomed addition to the Southland's restaurant landscape, and, I suspect, will do just fine.

Recommended Dishes:
Classic Guacamole, Woodland Mushrooms Ceviche, Shredded Creekstone Beef Short Rib Sopes, Chicken Tamale, Tinga Poblana, Veracruz-Style Buñuelos

Osteria Mamma (Los Angeles, CA)
05/24/2010
Of all of LA's Italian eateries, perhaps none has been so widely beloved as Osteria La Buca. Once only a tiny 20-seat restaurant, La Buca flourished under the leadership of its head chef "Mamma" Loredana Cecchinato and her son Filippo Cortivo. The strength of Mamma's handmade pastas and the charm of her seemingly simple dishes enabled La Buca to eventually triple in size, earning ample praise in the process. However, all was not well. Word on the street was that La Buca was becoming more and more "Americanized," much to the dismay of mamma and son. The pair left in late 2009, moving a couple blocks west to open a new restaurant in the old Seafood Village space. The aptly-named Osteria Mamma debuted in mid-March of this year. The menu, fortunately, hasn't changed much from Mamma's days at La Buca. You'll still find her antipasti and pizza, but the made-from-scratch pastas are the real stars here.

Crostini di Burrata [$17.25] | Burrata crostini with black truffle and prosciutto
The crostini were an easy choice to begin with. The cool, creamy, luscious body of Burrata formed a great interplay with the crusty bread, while the bitter greens and salty ham provided further layers of complexity, and of deliciousness. The truffle, meanwhile, added a trace of earthiness to the relative mildness of the cheese, but I would've appreciate a more forceful application.

Polipolata [$11.25] | grilled octopus, fresh celery, lemon, extra virgin olive oil and potatoes
It seems like I've been on an octopus binge as of late, so I just had to order this dish, which, apparently, is a new item on the menu. The polipo was quite tender (a bit too much so, actually), and subtly sweet, but I would've preferred more of that savory char. Nevertheless, I loved the texture and starchy savor of the crunchy cubes of raw potato, as well as the juicy sweetness imparted by the tomato combined with the astringency of the arugula. I didn't even mind the celery, which I'm not normally a fan of.

Special: Cappesante [$14.25] | bacon-wrapped scallops, arugula, frisée
Bacon-wrapped scallops (or bacon-wrapped anything) always sound like a good decision, so this was an easy order to make off the list of specials that our server rattled off. Due to the bacon, the scallops had an intense sweet-savory-smoky flavor going on, which I found rather overwhelming actually. Thus, the use of the bitter greens in the dish was absolutely critical in tempering the bivalves' considerable potency.

Reginette della Mamma [$16.25] | cream sauce, guanciale, sausage and Treviso radicchio
It was time now for the main attraction: pasta. We started off with the ribbon-shaped reginette, and it was a strong start indeed. I loved the robust, meaty attack of the dish, and how the sausage provided a great salty overtone to punctuate the paired cream sauce. Very good; however, a touch more bitterness from the radicchio would've been nice.

Pappardelle al Fumo [$14.95] | pink sauce, bacon, Scamorza cheese and oregano
"Al Fumo" means "smoke," and sure enough, this pasta demonstrated just a hint of overarching smokiness, no doubt from the Scamorza. The pink sauce, meanwhile, showed off a tangy sweetness that transitioned beautifully to the lingering saltiness of the bacon. The oregano, meanwhile, added a subtle herbal flair to things.

Trenette Nere alla Bottarga [$17.95] | black squid ink trenette, organic cherry tomatoes, shrimp and bottarga
A few weeks back, while dining at Nakkara, I was instructed by Diana of Diana Takes a Bite that I just had to order this dish (she apparently had come here recently on a date!). In addition to coloring the trenette a pleasing shade of onyx, the squid ink also contributed a slightly salty taste to the pasta, while the tomatoes added a distinct sweetness. The star of the show here, though, was the delightfully snappy shrimp, which really did a great job in conveying the briny essence of the ocean, aided, of course, by the application of bottarga (cured roe).

Linguine alla Carbonara [$14.75] | pancetta, eggs, black pepper and Grana Padano
This was probably the best Carbonara dish I've ever had. Flavors were classic, but superbly focused, robust even. I enjoyed the lovely "al dente" texture of the linguine paired with the luxurious creaminess of egg, and how the pasta was perfectly tinged with the saltiness of pork belly. The liberal use of black pepper provided an interesting focal point, while the sparing use of Grana Padano (it's the new Parmigiano Reggiano) added just a bit of weight to complete the dish.

Gnocchi del Boscaiolo [$14.75] | cream sauce, baby green peas, ham and white mushrooms
Apparently, at the old Osteria La Buca, one was able to order Mamma's gnocchi with any available sauce. Here though, it looks like we're stuck with the Boscaiolo ("lumberman") sauce. I'm not complaining though. These soft, dense pillows of potato were beautifully countered by the vegetal tang of the green peas and the wonderfully salty ham, making this one of the strongest gnocchi experiences I've had to date.

For dessert, a wide array of tarts is available, along with Mamma's famous tiramisu.

Torta di Cioccolato e Pere [$7.50]
Easily the most intriguing of the tortas was this chocolate and pear version. The tartness of the fruit was actually a fitting counter to the richness of the chocolate, and I also appreciated the tort's warm, crusty base as well.

Tiramisu [$10.00]
I'm usually quite "meh" about tiramisus, but this was clearly a stand-out. I loved its cool, creamy, ethereal consistency, and how the initial sharpness of coffee transitioned into luscious, sweet, nutty goodness. Easily one of the best (perhaps the best) tiramisus I've had.

I must preface things by stating that I had never visited Osteria La Buca under Mamma's tenure--I came in without expectation, without pretense. From the looks of things though, it seems like Mamma is back, with a vengeance. The food isn't something that'll "wow" you, but the enchanting appeal of Mamma's rustic, handmade dishes is apparent in spades at this lovingly-rendered Italian gem.


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/05/osteria-mamma-los-angeles-ca.html

Recommended Dishes:
Reginette della Mamma, Pappardelle al Fumo, Trenette Nere alla Bottarga, Linguine alla Carbonara, Gnocchi del Boscaiolo, Tiramisu

Inaka Seafood Gourmet (Arcadia, CA)
05/21/2010
Fans of the old, all-female Azami Sushi on Melrose were devastated when Chef/Owner Niki Nakayama shut down shop back in 2008. They can take solace in the fact that she's currently cooking at Inaka in Arcadia, but just temporarily. Inaka normally serves sundry items such as chirashi bowls, tempura, salads, and the like, but in September 2008, Nakayama began offering her $80, eight-course, reservations-only, BYOB omakase dinners in the space, and that's exactly what we were here for.

1: Tuna Tartar
Tuna tartar has been done to death, but Nakayama's version here does stand out from the crowd. With the tuna, she mixes in Niçoise olives, pine nuts, olive oil, and garlic, and serves the amalgam with Japanese wasabi, anchovy paste, and potato-Parmesan blinis. I loved the flavor imparted by the pine nuts, and how it played so well with the weightiness of olive oil. The anchovy, meanwhile, further heightened the power of the dish, and I was fascinated by the tempering effect of the blinis.

2: Sea Scallops
Jumbo sea scallops from Japan were accompanied by a disc of kombu jelly, uni butter, a microgreen salad, and yuzu zest. Taken alone, the hotate were suitably soft, supple, and sweet, with a markedly briny finish to boot. I liked how the uni added further richness and depth to the scallops, accentuating the bivalves' natural sapor, while the microgreens and yuzu contributed a piquant counterpoint.

3: Sashimi
Sashimi came in four varieties: a subtle sayori (needlefish) with superb lemon tang; a surprisingly creamy tai (sea bream) with a great lingering savoriness; a sweet, briny kanpachi (amberjack) from Japan; and Santa Barbara uni (sea urchin roe).

4: Kani Koramushi
When this dish arrived at the table, I was instantly reminded of Urasawa's utterly transcendent kani miso korayaki, which I will posit as one of the best things I've ever eaten. Nakayama's version doesn't reach such lofty heights, but was an accomplishment in its own right. The Chef loads up a crab shell with shiitake, egg, crabmeat, and both black and white truffle. I positively adored how the essence of crab was so forcefully delivered to my palate, and how the "eye" of egg yolk, once pierced, enveloped the dish with its overarching creaminess. The shiitake, meanwhile, provided an earthy tinge to things, and of course the truffles made themselves known as well! I even made sure to drink up the buttery "juice" left in the shell. Fantastic.

5: Unagi and Gobo Risotto with Foie Gras
The rice itself, imbued with the flavor of unagi and gobo (burdock), was quite tasty on its own, with a subtle sweetness that I enjoyed. The foie gras, on the other hand, was light, focused in flavor, and nicely moderated by the rice.

6: Awabi and Wagyu Ishiyaki
Ishiyaki refers to a cooking method employing hot stones. We were instructed to coat the stone with the cubes of butter prior to laying on our slices of A5 wagyu beef, which, expectedly, were fatty, oily, and positively luscious. As tasty as the beef was alone, I enjoyed the meat even more when dipped in the paired sesame oil-lemon-pepper sauce. The awabi (abalone), on the other hand, was meant to be eaten raw. I found the gastropod crisp in texture but quite mild in brine, so the include soy-wasabi sauce was a fitting accoutrement.

7: Sushi
Hamachi Belly - I loved the piquant tang of yuzu kosho here, and how it balanced the considerable heft of the yellowtail belly.
Toro - This was probably one of the most ridiculously tender pieces of toro I've had. It broke apart instantly upon mastication and coated my palate with plenty of that signature tuna belly lavishness.
Aji - Mackerel from Japan. I really appreciated the use of scallion and shiso here, and how the vegetables worked perfectly in moderating the mackerel's inherent brine.
Sake - Salmon from Scotland--lean, smooth, and very refined.
Amaebi - Very nice snappiness on the sweet shrimp, perked up by a small amount of soy sauce.
Aoyagi - One of the best preparations of aoyagi (orange clam) that I've had in a while; I thoroughly enjoyed its initial sweetness and lingering seaweed-tinged finish.

9: Sesame Crème Brûlée and Sesame Mochi with Azuki Bean
Dessert came in two parts. The first was a sesame seed crème brûlée, a gritty custard positively imbued with the quintessence of sesame. Next up was the mochi. The unabashed sugariness of the red beans formed a fitting complement to the comparatively mild globules of glutinous rice.

Some commentators have described Inaka's Chef's Table as a sort of budget Urasawa. Clearly, at less than one-fourth the cost, Inaka isn't at that level, but I didn't expect it to be. What I did expect was a seasonal omakase experience using high quality ingredients prepared with a touch of international flair, and in that front, Nakayama delivered. In November, she's planning to open a restaurant on the West Side, near the intersection of Overland and Palms. It'll likely be an omakase-only affair, and she'll be offering both traditional and modern versions of kaiseki. A small four-seater sushi bar should also be in place. I'll be looking forward to it!


Full review with photos: http://www.kevineats.com/2010/05/inaka-seafood-gourmet-arcadia-ca.html

Recommended Dishes:
Sea Scallops, Kani Koramushi, Wagyu Ishiyaki, Sushi: Toro, Aji, Aoyagi